Red Rocks: What is the best climbing closest to the road?

I'm looking for five-star/high-quality routes that are on the road and have no approach. I'm not too familiar with the loop. Can anyone give me some beta? (routes from 5.7 - 5.13)

RyanJames1984 wrote:I'm looking for five-star/high-quality routes that are on the road and have no approach. I'm not too familiar with the loop. Can anyone give me some beta? (routes from 5.7 - 5.13)

Okay, I'm not trolling, just to set the record straight. I'm simply looking for some fun climbs that do not have lengthy approaches. I'm going to be with my wife who doesn't always enjoy the good 'ol hour-long thigh-burner approach. Any aesthetic lines that are really easy to access?

Try the sandstone quarry pullout it's the third pullout in the loop I believe. There are some climbs pretty close to the parking area. Try mans best friend and there are two more just to the left of it with unknown names as far as I know. From the parking lot you go back down the road a short distance and scurry up the white rocks to the left then drop down into the small valley. There are several ways to get down. there's also a few other climbs right around there that im not sure of the names but its all fairly close to the parking area. Within a short 5-10 min hike. The guide books may be better at explaining the area then me or check the beta on this site I know it's listed.

Some of the long approaches in Red Rock are really easy. 45 minutes to an hour with almost no elevation gain. That is not to say that there are not some real huffers there also.

Go do Dark Shadows, Y2K, and the stuff on Brass Wall. Those approaches aren't too bad.

Here's the mp beta for what I'm talking about.
mountainproject.com/v/mans-…

The other climbs I've seen fairly close are easy access. Once your at the base of these climbs follow the valley back down to where it heads left up another valley there are some up there. Again I'm not sure of any other names I haven't climbed them I just saw all the routes when I was exploring my way to mans best friend. Let me know if this stuff helps.

Hit Moderate Mecca. Outside the loop and some of the shorter approaches in the area. Mainly trad but a good range of grades and quality. Same parking area (Red Springs) has Cannibal Crag for sport up through 5.12. There is also a decent new 3 pitch 5.9 sport climb nearby, Big Bad Wolf, right next to a classic 5.7 2 pitch trad climb, Physical Graffiti. Those two have a short but steeper approach than Moderate Mecca but all on slabs. Just up the road a bit with a steep and a longer scramble is the classic "The Fox" at 5.10d trad.

The closest approaches (5 minutes) are in Willow Springs. Ragged Edges is a classic 5.8.

Brian wrote:The closest approaches (5 minutes) are in Willow Springs. Ragged Edges is a classic 5.8.

The walk in to Black Velvet really isn't bad, at least by Red Rocks standards. Although it takes 30-60 minutes (depending on the wall), it is fairly flat, easy walking on a good trail, scenic. Some of the best routes and the best rock in Red Rocks as well. Cold this time of year, though.

Recommendations for routes in Pine Creek Canyon, including the Brass Wall (contains the excellent route Birdland), Dark Shadows, etc are also good. Walk may take 30-45 minutes (at a leisurely pace), but it is a mellow stroll, not a painful slog. Birdland gets good sun in the winter.

Frigidaire Buttress is reletively short for multi-pitch, but the name says it all. Unless you are planning on coming in the late spring (or you are from far north Canada,) Ice Box canyon is COLD.

Dog Wall or Tiger Stripe Wall at the first Pullout, Or The Pier at Sandstone Quary are some of the closest walls to the loop road I can think of.

R. Moran wrote:Dog Wall or Tiger Stripe Wall at the first Pullout, Or The Pier at Sandstone Quary are some of the closest walls to the loop road I can think of.

sorry, typo. I meant a short walk.

Calico basin is a good bet for trad, and I didn't think that the approach to the panty wall was too bad. The approaches at Red Rocks are worth the trip alone...beautiful country, and nothing beats the sunrise in the canyon. Have fun out there.