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 ADVANCED
Front Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Churning in the Dirt 
Fury 
Helltown 
Man's Best Friend 
Megatonic 
Monster Skank 
Pockets of Dirt 
Siktion 
Sound of Power 
Sunsplash 
To Bolt or Toupee 
Unknown 
Unknown 5.10 
Unknown Trad 

Man's Best Friend 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Limage, Ninfa Chauchois (2005)
Page Views: 11,210
Submitted By: 72HW on Nov 27, 2007
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Approaching the bolted belay station halfway up.

Description 

A closely bolted, enjoyable climb that heads straight up slabby white rock on pitch one, then into rippling red on the second. The view is great all the way up and the rock itself is a pleasure to climb on. An excellent introduction to multi-pitch climbing for those so inclined.


Location 

Located about 150 yards from the parking area, the first pitch is hidden by the fin of rock that forms the east wall of Front Corridor. Use hidden rappel anchors to drop down into the corridor and get to the base of the climb.


Protection 

First pitch is 90 feet and has 8 bolts, second pitch is also 90 feet with 10 bolts. Decent belay ledge halfway up with a secure hanging belay at the top.



Photos of Man's Best Friend Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing Man's Best Friend
Climbing Man's Best Friend
The two pitches can be linked if you are so inclined.  The bolts are close enough that you can skip a bunch to conserve gear.
The two pitches can be linked if you are so inclin...
First climb in Red Rock, can't wait to come back!
First climb in Red Rock, can't wait to come back!
When rappeling, there is some motivation to stop at the midway station.  The ledge is bristling with rope-snagging horns and flakes...
When rappeling, there is some motivation to stop a...
YIP
YIP
This route is easy to find if you know where to look.  This photo is taken from the parking area. The easily identified route "Fender Bender" is just out of the frame to the left.  Approach by scrambling up the slab and dropping into the small gully beyond it.
BETA PHOTO: This route is easy to find if you know where to lo...
Joining the group at the belay!
Joining the group at the belay!
The First Pitch
The First Pitch
Patrick Clark seconding the 1st pitch
Patrick Clark seconding the 1st pitch
First time on sandstone! I think I'm addicted!
First time on sandstone! I think I'm addicted!
High on Man's Best Friend
High on Man's Best Friend
Watch your rope at the first belay, tons of stuff to get it stuck on.
BETA PHOTO: Watch your rope at the first belay, tons of stuff ...
Man's Best Friend
BETA PHOTO: Man's Best Friend
Comments on Man's Best Friend Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2014
By soulagent
From: Las Vegas
May 30, 2008

One of the bolts on the rap station to get to the route has been pulled out. Its an easy scramble in and out! Great route for a first lead since it's well bolted! Great route in general!
Thanks Mark!

By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Sep 30, 2008

There is a bolted route left of Man's Best Friend. Any info on this?

By Paul-Anderson
From: Calgary
Mar 28, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

A potentially easier approach which avoids the rappel is to head a bit more right immediately out of the parking lot compared to the photo. There is a huge boulder and if you turn left right after this, you enter a small gully. At the end of gully (probably the third you pass after you exit the parking lot), it is a very easy downclimb and then a short walk to get to the start of the route.

By Kurt Burt
Oct 10, 2009

Been a guide here for years never knew about the route. Just got off the route with my son Adam who is 7. His first multi pitch route, just me and my boy just a perfect evening in the red rocks. Why you you rappel the approach? Just walk in with a 10 foot 3rd class move doen the gully from the route.

By Shawn Neal
Nov 27, 2009

There are 3 routes left of MBF,all of which start on a ramp about 40'
left and 15 up. The 1st is Mollie's Malecone, a trad route up a shallow crack that protects well with aliens and med. camalots, save a small piece for the horizonal 3/4s up. A bolt protects the white slab below the crack. 5:8+ 90' to chains.

The next route left is Riley's Revenge, sport 8 bolts, 5:9 100'to the chains.

Next route left is Paislie Pockets, up the slab to a right facing corner up to the horizonal, traverse right to a left facing corner at the top move right and up to the chains. 5:7+ pg 2 ropes or 1 70 meter for rappel.

Corey Cogley and I put up all of the routes on the face 2-04. We call the the area The Pet Wall. Mark bolted MBF on lead after Cory and I had done it without bolts, not realizing till he reached the chains, a small detail Mark and I laugh about.

By Ed Lysne
Dec 2, 2009

Fun route. Approach: Easy quick rap from straight across the gully.
Route: I led it in 1 pitch (60m) and skipped a few bolts. Rap in 2

By nick johns
Feb 8, 2010

HAHA DOR! I remember the day i came up with mud all over my subie!!! Great sandstone routes in my old home town.....To think it was 5 years ago when we first worked these routes!!!!Winston Wall I think was the name!

By live_it
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Apr 30, 2010

Great, and super fun multi pitch sport route. Super protected (1.5-2 moves for each bolt in some areas) seemed a lot easier than 5.7 especially when compared to some other trad routes.

By Superpolok
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 8, 2011

Wonderful sport climb and VERY well protected which you'll never hear me complaining about. A couple of the bolts on the first pitch are spinners right now.

By Alex Rogers
From: Sydney, Australia
Oct 4, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Excellent climb, good intro to new leader / new to multipitch.

By Garrett Wilson
From: Henderson nevada
Jan 15, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I really enjoyed this climb, my first multi-pitch. Perfect to start out, it seems like its a first for alot of climbers so I rated it great just for the fact that it's a popular beginners choice. Real close to the parking and an easy scramble in. The route is real fun, easy climbing and good bolt placement. However when I did this, one of the bolts at the belay point below P2 was loose and pulled out a bit so it was interesting, and also there were a few spinners as well. Im sure it's been done alot since I did it so hopefully these issues have been fixed. Overall its a good climb for anyone, gets good sun, and be prepared to be in lots of tourists photos, anyone on this climb attracts alot of attention from all the people in the parking lot. Enjoy!

By DavidF
From: Fishers, IN
Feb 10, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Great route for introducing new climbers to the joys of multi-pitch climbing. Have used this climb many times in the past for instruction. No need to repel the approach. Stay to right by 30' and climb down into gully. Well if not over protected, but that does make it a perfect route for new leaders.

By kboofis
Mar 18, 2013

My girlfriend and I went to climb this and was waiting for a party of three to rappel off when we wet to clip into the hangers to begin the rappel approach. We noticed the two bolts were spinning and I pulled out one of them with just my hand, left it on the ground, and the other one would have came out it as easily. The party said they had approached the climb from those rappel anchors and one of them was clearly more experienced than the other two. After reading these other comments about spinning hangers on the climb and not sure whether they had been replaced or not we decided against climbing it because of how sketched out we were. I recommend anyone want to climb this route to REALLY be careful and hopefully this route will have upgraded protection soon.

Just a reminder to just not trust protection out there. It hadn't rained or snowed recently and was just from old gear.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

1) don't take bolts out, even by hand (unless you can leave a safe option). Even in shear, they are plenty strong for a rappel. Just let someone know it's bad. Leaving them out will endanger others.

2) there is an extremely casual 3rd class approach about 50 yards south of the rappel to this climb. Climbers looking to do this route should use this option until someone has time to go replace that bolt. (and, truth be told, it might be a good thing that anchor has gone the way of the dodo, as its completely unnecessary)

By Frank L.
Apr 7, 2014

At least two spinning bolts on P1 as of 4/5/14.