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Best Beginner Trad Leads in Boulder Canyon/Flatirons

Original Post
CJ Coccia · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 35

I figured this topic had been beaten to death but had no luck finding it. I was curious what routes people would suggest as a good first couple trad leads up in the canyon or at the flatirons (not including the third). I browsed through some of the lower graded trad routes in the canyon but there always seems to be a battle on what serves as a good beginning lead.

I have been doing a decent amount of mixed leads with a friend of mine but havent led any solid trad routes as of yet. I comfortably reach the high 10s in sport.

Thanks much for all the suggestions. I am excited about starting this new part for me in climbing.

Evan S · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

East side of the Dome, Standard Route on the Elephant Butresses, Zig-Zag on the First. Just do those three to get comfortable with gear and avoiding rope drag, it all opens up once you trust the gear and don't put Z's in your system.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,677

The 5.7's on Cob rock are good ones.
The flatirons East slabs are all easy faces, and with respect to leading easy in respect to grade, but grade isn't your issue, placing gear is. And you are not going to get a ton of practice doing that in the flatirons.

So why ignore Eldo?
The back side of the Whales Tail EATS gear, and Wind Ridge is sure a good option too. So is the West Overhang of the Wind Tower.

At your skill level, there are many more possibilities that are a little harder, but protect well and you can afford to sit and tinker in 3 racks worth of gear.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

There's Gregory Canyon too...short and decent routes that aren't overly committing.

Cathy Badell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 95

Agree with Tony on Cob Rock and would add Happy Hour crag - not awesome routes on the latter, but good practice and short approach. In Eldo I enjoyed The Bomb, Breezy, and Clementine. My very first Eldo lead was West Crack.

Cat

TresSki Roach · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined May 2002 · Points: 605

Steve Dieckhoff wrote an excellent book that covers the Front Range, not just Boulder. There are some really great beginner routes in here. I agree with Tony. Don't ignore Eldo. Wind Ridge, The Bomb, Recon, Breezy, West Crack, Clemintine, etc. . .There are so many in Eldo. I'm biased tho. Eldo is where I cut my trad teeth.

Here's the book:

Serious Play

Edit. . .Looks like Cathy and I posted at the same time. :-)

These routes were good beginner leads for me at the Boulderado in Boulder Canyon:
The Boulderado

talkinrocks · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 80

+ 1 for Cob Rock. Excellent 5.7 trad leads, super fun.

Calypso and Tigger in Eldo are good beginner leads too.

Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 368

I agree about Cob Rock... NFC eats gear and is a fun route. Unfortunately, it is north facing and the weather is getting cooler, so it might not be that pleasant unless you pick a particularly warm day.

How about Rewritten in Eldo. It also eats gear and is super fun. I would recommend starting on the first pitch of Great Zot which has one 5.8 move, but it protects much better and is good for a new leader.

Tigger on the Wind Tower at 5.6 is also an excellent lead and relatively mild at 5.5.

In the Flatirons I would suggest Fandango on the First. It takes much more gear than the standard route (although still runout), and it feels much more positive and is rated 5.5.

The North Face of the Matron is nice at 5.6. The first pitch protects very well, and after that it is easy slab climbing (probably easier than the 3rd). It does start on the north side, but only 1 pitch...

CJ Coccia · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 35

rad thanks for all of the suggestions thus far...i cant wait to leave the sport draws at home =)

Brett B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 20

+1 for the Boulderado
Also checkout the right side of the Riveria has some good leads with easy protection.

Joe Huggins · · Grand Junction · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 105

Lots of good suggestions here- as Tony asked; why ignore Eldo? The West Ridge has scads of well protected moderates; Washington Irving, 5.6, Dr Michael Solar, 5.7, Mesca Line 5.7+, Next to Nearly, Positively Fourth St, The Unsaid, Chockstone(1st pitch),5.9-I could go on. Steve Levins' Eldo guide is the epitome of what a guide should be;it won't steer you wrong.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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