Best Beginner Trad Leads in Boulder Canyon/Flatirons
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I figured this topic had been beaten to death but had no luck finding it. I was curious what routes people would suggest as a good first couple trad leads up in the canyon or at the flatirons (not including the third). I browsed through some of the lower graded trad routes in the canyon but there always seems to be a battle on what serves as a good beginning lead. |
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East side of the Dome, Standard Route on the Elephant Butresses, Zig-Zag on the First. Just do those three to get comfortable with gear and avoiding rope drag, it all opens up once you trust the gear and don't put Z's in your system. |
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The 5.7's on Cob rock are good ones. |
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There's Gregory Canyon too...short and decent routes that aren't overly committing. |
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Agree with Tony on Cob Rock and would add Happy Hour crag - not awesome routes on the latter, but good practice and short approach. In Eldo I enjoyed The Bomb, Breezy, and Clementine. My very first Eldo lead was West Crack. |
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Steve Dieckhoff wrote an excellent book that covers the Front Range, not just Boulder. There are some really great beginner routes in here. I agree with Tony. Don't ignore Eldo. Wind Ridge, The Bomb, Recon, Breezy, West Crack, Clemintine, etc. . .There are so many in Eldo. I'm biased tho. Eldo is where I cut my trad teeth. |
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+ 1 for Cob Rock. Excellent 5.7 trad leads, super fun. |
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I agree about Cob Rock... NFC eats gear and is a fun route. Unfortunately, it is north facing and the weather is getting cooler, so it might not be that pleasant unless you pick a particularly warm day. |
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rad thanks for all of the suggestions thus far...i cant wait to leave the sport draws at home =) |
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+1 for the Boulderado |
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Lots of good suggestions here- as Tony asked; why ignore Eldo? The West Ridge has scads of well protected moderates; Washington Irving, 5.6, Dr Michael Solar, 5.7, Mesca Line 5.7+, Next to Nearly, Positively Fourth St, The Unsaid, Chockstone(1st pitch),5.9-I could go on. Steve Levins' Eldo guide is the epitome of what a guide should be;it won't steer you wrong. |