The Riviera

A lot of the hangers at this crag are bent from people clipping on them wrong or the belayer standing too far back and catching falls. Maybe the hangers were low quality to start with. None of them seem really unsafe, but I don't like the looks of these.

That said, this cliff is kinda sad. A lot of routes of questionable quality are crowded in, between other routes. A few of the lines here are so close in places that it's hard to tell which line you are on and which bolt you should clip.

Beach Bum was bolted so tight to the crack on Devil's Dihedral that the bolt is "on a trad line."

I did all of the climbs at this crag this past weekend. It was enjoyable, but none of them stand out in my mind. All of the climbs left me wanting more or feeling like it wasn't enough. Best described as unsustained. Definitely worth the approach though. There are 14 climbs, bring a rack of small-med. stoppers, some RPs, and Aliens. You can do them all in a few hours with a quick partner and no crowd.

For perhaps slightly better directions for AC: Drive uphill and look for the upper Bihedral area (it has an overhanging profile on the skyline) approximately 7 miles past Elephant Buttesses (1st climbing rocks in the canyon). There is a pulloff on the south side of the road just past a decent talus field that comes down nearly to the road on the north side. There is a large tree at this pulloff. This pulloff is downhill from Boulder Falls. You can look up at the Bihedral and see a big left-facing dihedral up high on the north side of the road. Walk downhill briefly (approx 100m) to the same talus field. Hike up the talus field approximately 5 minutes. When you get to a cliff, wander east 2 minutes to the base of this rock/crag. Hopefully, that helps.

Someone has done some well-meaning but poorly thought out gear maintenance here lately. The anchor up and right of Topless Etiquette (also used for Le Nouveau Riche) has big links added, but the old links were not removed, leaving a bad situation. There are similar problems with the anchor on Bosch Blanket Bingo.

In early June, Ron Olsen, Rob Copolillo and I replaced the rappel/lower hardware on five of the seven fixed anchors on this crag. We removed all smash (lap) links and cold shuts and installed 5/16" quick links and 3/8" chain links plus new hangers where necessary. Also, we removed the worn smash links from the Le Nouveau Riche anchor (it already had quick links).

This work was performed as part of the American Safe Climbing Association's (ASCA - www.safeclimbing.org) Clean Anchor Campaign. They could use yoursupport!

Good job and thanks for the effort!

I believe the parking are Leo refers to is the next wide area on the south side of the road after the Happy Hour Crag parking area (which is the next one after Cob Rock). If you walk back down the road 100' from here there is a trail going up to the base of the Bihedral Area. Watch for loose rock, there is a block right on the trail hanging by a thread!

Parking: the wide area George talks about is also marked by little green mile marker 34. The "430" post trail is about two minutes' walk west.

One more set of directions that may be helpful. There are two parking lots that work for this crag, both just before u get to boulder falls. The first as you are heading up the canyon is on the south side and closer to the hard to spot "430"marker (which is still there as of today!). The second is on the north a couple of hundred yards closer to the falls. Hike back down the road till to get just east of the talus rock field and look for a post (on north side right next to trail) with 430 on it. It is a very well travelled trail so if you are boulder hopping you are off route unless u don't like the easy way. The trail leads clearly all to the way to the base of the climbs. Nice place to climb on warmer winter days with its southern exposure.

Was back there again and once again had a good time. Seems like there is a little crag bashing about this area. Sure, some of the routes are a little contrived and maybe overbolted, but everyone I have seen here seems to be having a good time. What I like is the variety. You have everything from 5.6-5.11. You have some routes like the easier ones of the right that make good beginner leads, which aren't overbolted at all and for most people require supplemental trad gear. Plus, it is quite often warm in the middle of the winter and ten minutes from the road. Maybe not a totally classic area, but still worth a visit IMHO.

Ahh, tick! Tick! Tick! Tick!
Check yourself - we picked up three on two people.