Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk. USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info:
fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See -
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at
fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
As a Boulder trad climber for over 35 years, I did not want excessive bolting to marr the aesthetics of this little area. So I have carefully thought about each and every bolt I hand drilled (4 total): three on the blank slab (for three different routes) and 1 at the top belay. I believe this spartan style creates a mixed-pro route that will be safe yet adventurous for young climbers and their parents.
Since I learned to climb in the 1970s, I planned the top anchor to be 1 bolt and 1 fixed hex in a good crack, equalized and with rap rings, but I now realize that wasn't the best idea since someone else removed the hex and rap rings. So, currently the safest way off is by walk off descent to the south until I get the top anchor safe for rappel/top rope.
Thanks for your patience with my efforts to create a bus accessible, family-style crag for youngsters.
More route photos to come.... Jun 7, 2013
Nederland, CO
Thanks for your work on this crag, it made for a very memorable Father's Day for my son and me!
I think this is Fiona's Route. Jun 16, 2013
Yes, that is Fiona's Route. Jun 25, 2013
About six feet left of the start of Fiona is a vertical seam with two fixed KBs. This is directly beneath the bolt on Fiona. To climb directly from the undercut start, up to the first pin is at least 5.11. To start a few feet farther right, bouldering up, then moving left to clip the pin is maybe 5.9-. After bouldering up from the ground, placing a small wire or RP before continuing up and left to the second pin may be better than reaching down and to the left to clip the first pin. Is this the route Heads or Tails?? Aug 24, 2013
Lynchburg, VA
Dallas, Ga.
Thank you for the work on this crag. I climbed it yesterday with my 8 year old son and a few others. It was my first trip outdoors, and everyone had a really nice time. Sep 25, 2016
Boulder, CO