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Unknown Left Side 

Unknown Left Side 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 2,073
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Jun 5, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Close to the bottom, Bill?

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Description 

This route doesn't appear in Rossiter's or Rolofson's Boulder Canyon guidebooks, but I'm sure it's been climbed for a long time. Please add a comment if you know the name of this route.

The route is a good beginner lead as it can be sewn up. The crux is brief and well-protected.


Location 

This route is the first crack system to the left of I, Robot. Walk off the top.


Protection 

Standard rack. A bigger piece might ease the mind of a beginning leader. A sturdy tree at the top of the route can be tied off for an anchor.



Photos of Unknown Left Side Slideshow Add Photo
Laura soloing the unknown left side.
Laura soloing the unknown left side.
The line is in the center.
BETA PHOTO: The line is in the center.
Comments on Unknown Left Side Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Great route for beginners.

By Scott McMahon
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 23, 2009

Great route...just a note that I found that a #4 BD wasn't big enough for the crux (if you want it). Next time I'll probably at least bring a #4.5. You can avoid the big piece by placing a cam up in the crux sidepull.

By HTP
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 13, 2009

You can really sew this up with medium to big gear--very reassuring for beginning leaders. Scott mentioned his #4 Camalot wasn't big enough, but I found a place to make it work...and even climbed higher and scooted it up, so I guess I found two spots for it. :)

By Stacy Fobar
From: Denver, CO
Apr 29, 2010

You can easily set up a TR from the tree at the top of this climb. I would suggest hiking up the left side to set up the TR and hiking back down vs. rapping since the top is rather blocky and would make for a slow and careful rap. Great exposure to rock for beginners.

By Joshua Steenburgh
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 19, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

The climbing on this route is all pretty straightforward, but I thought the crux was a little spicy and I took my time with it.

By Joshua Steenburgh
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Also, I think a number 4 works just fine in the crux. You can even bring up another if you want to protect the final 4th class moves to the anchor.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jan 15, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

A #4 Camalot works great. You could place something bigger, but it is really not necessary.