Welsford  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  45.4559, -66.3419 Map Page Views:  11,920. Good page?    Administrators:  Dom, Ian Lingley, Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

Joe's Garage at Cochrane Lane

Description 

Considered the highest concentration of quality climbing in the Atlantic Provinces. Trad, sport, ice, aid and top-roping. Quality rock, excellent pro-placement, great views from up high.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs. If you're not a UNB rock & Ice member, you'll have to drive to camp Petersville 9km North of Welsford to get a day pass. If you're a UNB rock & Ice member, please call in.

Here is a summary of the 5 crags:

Cochrane Lane
By far the biggest crag in New Brunswick. With its 350 routes on beautiful pink Granite, it is by far the most popular area in New Brunswick. The climbing here is mostly trad but there is a fair bit of mix routes and sport routes, especially in the 5.11 range.

Sunnyside
A newly developped cliff, Sunnyside offers climbers a chance to relax and clip some nice shiny bolts. There are about 30 climbs and grades range from 5.7 to 5.12c. You can find jugs, crimps, slopes and a few cracks on these short to medium size diabase routes.

Mount Douglas
Was rediscovered in 2010 by a local climber and since then a bunch of work has been put into it. The''Dalles'' are not to be missed here as they offer high quality moderate challenges on well protected slabs. Also, Idoprofen is one of the few hand jam cracks in NB and is not to be missed by the 5.11 climber.

Bald Peak It offers about 15 toprope routes on high quality granite and gives climbers one of the best view in the Nerepis valley.

Eagle Rock
Rediscovered in 2012 by local climbers who have been putting new traditional routes up. This crag is in Welsford but isn't affected by the Gagetown agreement. Climb at will.

Getting There 

Along Route 7 between Oromocto and Saint John, NB. 45 minutes from Fredericton, 25 minutes from Saint John. See parking and approach details for the specific crags.

The Classics

Featured Route For Welsford

Lilly 5.10a  International : Canada : ... : LingHall Wall

Walk to the right edge of the LingHall ledge over around a small corner to reveal and great slaby corner, finishing with a perfect corner hand crack. This climb is a gem and the exposure is marvelous. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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