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Welsford

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Cochrane Lane Cliffs 
Eagle Rock 
Mount Douglas-East Face 
Sunnyside 
Welsford Bouldering 

Welsford  


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Location: 45.4559, -66.3419 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,683
Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 14, 2010
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Joe's Garage at Cochrane Lane

Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Considered the highest concentration of quality climbing in the Atlantic Provinces. Trad, sport, ice, aid and top-roping. Quality rock, excellent pro-placement, great views from up high.

The Welsford area located in Southern NB has 5 crags and offers lots of opportunities wether you want to trad climb, sport climb, Toprope, Aid climb and even ice climb! The climbing in Welsford is situated on the southern tip of the Gagetown Military Base. As a result, climbers have an agreement with the military to be able to access the cliffs. If you're not a UNB rock & Ice member, you'll have to drive to camp Petersville 9km North of Welsford to get a day pass. If you're a UNB rock & Ice member, please call in.

Here is a summary of the 5 crags:

Cochrane Lane
By far the biggest crag in New Brunswick. With its 350 routes on beautiful pink Granite, it is by far the most popular area in New Brunswick. The climbing here is mostly trad but there is a fair bit of mix routes and sport routes, especially in the 5.11 range.

Sunnyside
A newly developped cliff, Sunnyside offers climbers a chance to relax and clip some nice shiny bolts. There are about 30 climbs and grades range from 5.7 to 5.12c. You can find jugs, crimps, slopes and a few cracks on these short to medium size diabase routes.

Mount Douglas
Was rediscovered in 2010 by a local climber and since then a bunch of work has been put into it. The''Dalles'' are not to be missed here as they offer high quality moderate challenges on well protected slabs. Also, Idoprofen is one of the few hand jam cracks in NB and is not to be missed by the 5.11 climber.

Bald Peak It offers about 15 toprope routes on high quality granite and gives climbers one of the best view in the Nerepis valley.

Eagle Rock
Rediscovered in 2012 by local climbers who have been putting new traditional routes up. This crag is in Welsford but isn't affected by the Gagetown agreement. Climb at will.

Getting There 

Along Route 7 between Oromocto and Saint John, NB. 45 minutes from Fredericton, 25 minutes from Saint John. See parking and approach details for the specific crags.

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.7 miles from here

61 Total Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',33],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',10],['5.8',7],['5.9',9],['5.10',8],['5.11',15],['5.12',4],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Welsford:
Pass the Moonshine   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Pyramid Wall Area
Stairway to Heaven   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 90'   Sunnyside : Atomic Wall
About a Rope   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Pyramid Wall Area
Leviathan   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 30'   Cochrane Lane Cliffs : Cave Area
Cornifluge   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Mount Douglas-East Face : Main Face
Browse More Classics in Welsford

Featured Route For Welsford
Leviathan 5.11b

Leviathan 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  North America : Canada : ... : Cave Area
This is a classic route.Leviathan climbs the bolted totem like feature around cave area. The first few moves are a bit height dependent but many betas can be used whether you are short or tall. Reminiscent of a V3 Boulder problem.This is one of the only routes in the Welsford area that will stay dry even in a downpour. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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Comments on Welsford Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ian Lingley
Administrator
Aug 1, 2012
Is there any way to remove the CFB warning on all of Welsford and only apply it to the cliffs/areas that are affected? Eagle rock is private property and I'm also planing on adding bald peak as well and it's not on the base either?
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 1, 2012
Ian, the warning could be removed from the overall Welsford area and added to the individual crags it applies to.
By Ian Lingley
Administrator
Aug 2, 2012
That would be great, It applies to the Cochrane Lane Cliffs, sunny side, Mount Douglas-East Face and the bouldering.
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Aug 10, 2012
Hey Ian, Bald Peak is on CFB Gagetown. The parking isn't but the cliff is. Anyways, I'll try to fix all this so that Eagle Rock doesn't get the Access message.