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Elevation: 589 ft 180 m
GPS: 45.4703, -66.3471
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Shared By: Dom Caron on Dec 16, 2011
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes
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Warning Access Issue: Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The East Face of Mount Douglas is the obvious crag located directly in front of the Welsford Golf course. It was rediscovered in 2010 and since a trail has been put in and over 25 routes have been established. The climbing here is on granite but despite the rock type, most routes here have bolts around the crux. One exception is the 3 stars all trad hand crack called Idoprofen. It is probably the best route at Mount Douglas.

Les Dalles de St-Anselme is an extension to the east face of Mount Douglas and offers high quality slab climbing on pristine stone. The grades are moderate here and the bolts are close so this would be a good place to start leading routes.

Getting There Suggest change

In front of the golf course is the newly built overpath for the highway bypass. Driver under it and park at the pullout near the woods Look for a trail on the left end of the pullout and follow the pink blazes all the way to the crag (15-20 mins.) The dalles the St-Anselme are located 5 minutes further on the climber's right when you get to the main face.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Mount Douglas-East Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Douglas-East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 9
● Le jardinier de la dalle
Trad, Sport
Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
● Mangeur de bas
Sport
Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Colt 45
Trad
Main Face
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
● 2 Tours
Sport
Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
● Serpents Volants
Trad
Main Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
● Maman Linda
Trad
Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
● Baille-y de la friction
Sport
Les Dalles de St-Anselme
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
● Vapour Trails
Sport
Main Face
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
● Idoprofen
Trad
Main Face
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 4
● Dog Fight
Trad
Main Face
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
● Cornifluge
Trad
Main Face
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Le jardinier de la dalle Les Dalles de St-Anselme
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Sport
● Mangeur de bas Les Dalles de St-Anselme
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Colt 45 Main Face
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● 2 Tours Les Dalles de St-Anselme
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Serpents Volants Main Face
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Maman Linda Les Dalles de St-Anselme
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Baille-y de la friction Les Dalles de St-Anselme
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Vapour Trails Main Face
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Idoprofen Main Face
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Dog Fight Main Face
 4
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
● Cornifluge Main Face
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Mount Douglas-East Face »

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main face at Mount Doug
main face at Mount Doug
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