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Mount Douglas-East Face
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Les Dalles de St-Anselme 
Main Face 

Mount Douglas-East Face 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 45.4703, -66.3471 Map
Page Views: 2,148. Good page?   
Administrators: Dom, Ian Lingley, Peter Spindloe, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Dom on Dec 16, 2011

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  • Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control MORE INFO >>>
  • Must contact CFB Gagetown Range Control MORE INFO >>>


  • main face at Mount Doug

    Description 

    The East Face of Mount Douglas is the obvious crag located directly in front of the Welsford Golf course. It was rediscovered in 2010 and since a trail has been put in and over 25 routes have been established. The climbing here is on granite but despite the rock type, most routes here have bolts around the crux. One exception is the 3 stars all trad hand crack called Idoprofen. It is probably the best route at Mount Douglas.

    Les Dalles de St-Anselme is an extension to the east face of Mount Douglas and offers high quality slab climbing on pristine stone. The grades are moderate here and the bolts are close so this would be a good place to start leading routes.


    Getting There 

    In front of the golf course is the newly built overpath for the highway bypass. Driver under it and park at the pullout near the woods Look for a trail on the left end of the pullout and follow the pink blazes all the way to the crag (15-20 mins.) The dalles the St-Anselme are located 5 minutes further on the climber's right when you get to the main face.


    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Douglas-East Face:
    Le jardinier de la dalle   5.5     Trad, Sport, 70 feet   Les Dalles de St-Anselme
    Mangeur de bas   5.7     Sport, 70 feet   Les Dalles de St-Anselme
    2 Tours   5.7+     Sport, 70 feet   Les Dalles de St-Anselme
    Serpents Volants   5.8     Trad, 50 feet   Main Face
    Baille-y de la friction   5.9+     Sport, 70 feet   Les Dalles de St-Anselme
    Vapour Trails   5.10a     Trad, Sport, 60 feet   Main Face
    Idoprofen   5.11     Trad, 70 feet   Main Face
    Tylenul   5.11d     Trad, Sport, 70 feet   Main Face
    Cornifluge   5.12b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Main Face
    Browse More Classics in Mount Douglas-East Face

    Featured Route For Mount Douglas-East Face
    Dom on the start of his new route

    Tylenul 5.11d  International : Canada : ... : Main Face
    A tough face start leads to the left end of the ledge. From the ledge clip the 5th bolt on your left and back-clean the 4th one to avoid rope drag. Climb sustained moves leading to a nice finger crack. After the crack ends, head left towards the anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International