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DescriptionThe East Face of Mount Douglas is the obvious crag located directly in front of the Welsford Golf course. It was rediscovered in 2010 and since a trail has been put in and over 25 routes have been established. The climbing here is on granite but despite the rock type, most routes here have bolts around the crux. One exception is the 3 stars all trad hand crack called Idoprofen. It is probably the best route at Mount Douglas. Getting ThereIn front of the golf course is the newly built overpath for the highway bypass. Driver under it and park at the pullout near the woods Look for a trail on the left end of the pullout and follow the pink blazes all the way to the crag (15-20 mins.) The dalles the St-Anselme are located 5 minutes further on the climber's right when you get to the main face. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Douglas-East Face:
Le jardinier de la dalle 5.5 Trad, Sport, 70 feet Les Dalles de St-Anselme
Mangeur de bas 5.7 Sport, 70 feet Les Dalles de St-Anselme
2 Tours 5.7+ Sport, 70 feet Les Dalles de St-Anselme
Serpents Volants 5.8 Trad, 50 feet Main Face
Baille-y de la friction 5.9+ Sport, 70 feet Les Dalles de St-Anselme
Vapour Trails 5.10a Trad, Sport, 60 feet Main Face
Cornifluge 5.12b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Main Face
Featured Route For Mount Douglas-East Face
Tylenul 5.11d International : Canada : ... : Main Face
A tough face start leads to the left end of the ledge. From the ledge clip the 5th bolt on your left and back-clean the 4th one to avoid rope drag. Climb sustained moves leading to a nice finger crack. After the crack ends, head left towards the anchor. ...[more] Browse More Classics in International |