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Routes in Coffin Buttress
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C.P.O.D. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Closed Casket Variation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Coffin Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Coffin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Exsqueeze Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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No Star Tuesday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Rightside Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Strewn Masters of Hore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Viewing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | FFA: McQuarrie & Lowe '64 |
| Page Views: | 47,182 total · 187/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Mar 23, 2004 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The Coffin is the obvious finger crack that perfectly splits the face on the Coffin Buttress. The opening is a little tricky to protect, but still has good pro. After that, the gear is great until the anchors.
Clip the manky pin left of the crack, then traverse into the crack. Place a small cam, then climb up the beautiful finger crack for 80' to the large roof. From here two options exist. Traverse right (easier) to the anchors, or traverse left to anchors. Going left is highly recommended and adds some more fun climbing to the pitch.
Descent) Rap with one rope back to the base.
Clip the manky pin left of the crack, then traverse into the crack. Place a small cam, then climb up the beautiful finger crack for 80' to the large roof. From here two options exist. Traverse right (easier) to the anchors, or traverse left to anchors. Going left is highly recommended and adds some more fun climbing to the pitch.
Descent) Rap with one rope back to the base.
Photos
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