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-Shagg Crag Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in -Shagg Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Agro Shagg S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Block Buster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cell Block D S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Continental Divide T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cougar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Cut Split and Delivered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Death to the Queen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Deja Voodoo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Diesel S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Diesel Bob S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Elephant Knows, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fat Bastard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Fat Pig S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Freedom Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fuzzy Rhino Slippers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Generous Sons S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Ginseng Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Great Escape, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grimas De Oro V8 7B
	It Ain't Pretty Being Easy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Kick to the Teeth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Lady’s Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Late for Dinner S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Long and Short of It, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Looney Tunes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Nice Lady S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Nice Tooth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Night Moves S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Patches the Clown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Pushes Little Daisies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Raging Bull, The V8 7B
	Rain Czech S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Recombinant DNA S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rhino Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ritual, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Rough Rhino S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Screw It S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Shagg It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Shagg Zag S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Shaggadelic S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Shaggin Wagon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Short Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Short Shagg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Solstice S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sour Diesel S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Summer Smoke S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Tightrope S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Two Shaved Heads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Unitard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown Name S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Velvet Elvis S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Vin Diesel S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	What About Bob? S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	What About Bobcat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	When The Fat Lady Sings S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,393 ft	425 m
GPS:	44.43274, -70.52741 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	197,811 total · 929/month
Shared By:	Jay Knower on May 21, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine Details

2024 July 28 - Climbing closure routes now OPEN.

Another successful breeding season at the crag, thanks to all the climbers who chose to respect the nesting pair.

For more info. Please contact Dr. Erynn Call, MDIFW State Raptor Specialist with any questions: erynn.call@maine.gov.

To learn more about peregrines in Maine, check out this link: maine.gov/ifw/fish-wildlife…

Description

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.

Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.

Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.

Getting There

From the south (starting at Norway, ME):

Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.

After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. 1.7 miles where you turn left to continue on Tuell Hill Rd. and not continue onto Heath Hill Rd., Tuell Hill Rd continues until it dead-ends into Redding Road just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding Road. At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is an obvious pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road, which is marked as Little Concord Pond State ParkTrailhead and is easily found on Google Maps.

DO NOT turn right on North Shore Rd at the bottom of the hill- it is a private, dead end road.

DO NOT leave your trash, leave your bowel movements or camp in the parking lot. The parking lot is privately owned (not part of the state park and the owner does not appreciate the state of it, whether or not it is climbers doing this). You can message Shagg Snacks on Google Maps' chat function for limited very cheap camping options and endless tasty snacks before or after your session.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond to an amazing rock to jump off after your hot day of climbing, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill marked by a green sign 'Bald/Speckled Mountain'. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you'll continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit loop of Bald Mountain or continues on left to Speckled Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the first summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. If you totally biff it and end up at Speckled, you'll add another 1.5 hours to your hike. Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.

59 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at -Shagg Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 205 ● The Great Escape Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 90 ● Two Shaved Heads Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 82 ● Short Bob Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 127 ● Shaggin Wagon Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 146 ● Ginseng Route Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 87 ● Meltdown Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 49 ● Looney Tunes Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 24 ● Tightrope Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 82 ● Shagg It Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 30 ● What About Bobcat Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 9 ● Fat Bastard Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 9 ● Nice Tooth Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 11 ● What About Bob? Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 7 ● The Ritual Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c 9 ● When The Fat Lady Sings Sport