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Elevation: 1,393 ft 425 m
GPS: 44.43274, -70.52741
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Page Views: 197,885 total · 924/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on May 21, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
Warning Access Issue: Peregrine Falcons in Maine DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

In my experience, granite rarely forms buckets and when it does form buckets, it's rarely steep. Shagg Crag has all three: steep, juggy, granite climbing.

Located about an hour away from North Conway, Shagg sees a fair amount of traffic, though it is still possible to have the crag by yourself on a sunny weekend. The crag gets afternoon sun and there is little to offer shade, so expect a warm climbing experience. This can be a great thing on sunny winter days, or a curse on sunny summer days. Get up early on warm days and climb until the wall comes into the sun.

Besides Waimea at Rumney, Shagg might be the most stacked cliff in all of New England. If you're looking for endurance-esque 5.12's, I can't think of a better crag. The guidebook lists twelve routes rated 5.12 and almost all of them are quality. Shaggin Wagon (12a), Ginseng Route (12c), Meltdown (12c/d), and Shagg It (12d), stand out as unique classics. If you're looking for routes of a more moderate grade, Shagg might offer enough for a day or so, and The Great Escape (10d) should not be missed.

Getting There Suggest change

From the south (starting at Norway, ME):

Take Rte. 26 towards West Paris and turn right (east) onto Rte. 219.

After 4.8 miles, turn left (north) onto Tuell Hill Rd. Follow Tuell Hill Rd. 1.7 miles where you turn left to continue on Tuell Hill Rd. and not continue onto Heath Hill Rd., Tuell Hill Rd continues until it dead-ends into Redding Road just after a bridge. Reset your odometer at the bridge and turn left (west) onto Redding Road.  At 3.9 or 4.0 miles there is an obvious pullout on the left. Park here; the trail starts on the other side of the road, which is marked as Little Concord Pond State ParkTrailhead and is easily found on Google Maps.

DO NOT turn right on North Shore Rd at the bottom of the hill- it is a private, dead end road.

DO NOT leave your trash, leave your bowel movements or camp in the parking lot.  The parking lot is privately owned (not part of the state park and the owner does not appreciate the state of it, whether or not it is climbers doing this).  You can message Shagg Snacks on Google Maps' chat function for limited very cheap camping options and endless tasty snacks before or after your session.

Follow the trail for about 10 minutes until you come to a pond and a trail junction (the left fork goes to the pond, the middle fork contours east around the pond to an amazing rock to jump off after your hot day of climbing, the right fork heads up a steep ridge/hill marked by a green sign 'Bald/Speckled Mountain'. Take the right fork up the hill for 15-20 minutes and keep your eyes peeled for a subtle climber's trail that branches off to the right (east) and drops down around to the Shagg Crag. If you miss this turn, you'll continue for 5 minutes to an obvious trail junction (the righthand fork of which leads to the summit loop of Bald Mountain or continues on left to Speckled Mountain). This is a worthy detour and it is easy to visit the first summit and then retrace your steps back to the climber's trail. If you totally biff it and end up at Speckled, you'll add another 1.5 hours to your hike.  Total hiking time is about 30-40 minutes.

59 Total Climbs

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Location: -Shagg Crag Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at -Shagg Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 208
The Great Escape
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 90
Two Shaved Heads
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 82
Short Bob
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 128
Shaggin Wagon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 146
Ginseng Route
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 88
Meltdown
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 49
Looney Tunes
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 24
Tightrope
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 83
Shagg It
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 30
What About Bobcat
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 9
Fat Bastard
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
Nice Tooth
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 11
What About Bob?
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 7
The Ritual
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 9
When The Fat Lady Sings
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Escape
 208
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Two Shaved Heads
 90
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Short Bob
 82
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Shaggin Wagon
 128
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Ginseng Route
 146
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Meltdown
 88
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Looney Tunes
 49
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Tightrope
 24
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Shagg It
 83
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
What About Bobcat
 30
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Fat Bastard
 9
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Nice Tooth
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
What About Bob?
 11
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Ritual
 7
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
When The Fat Lady Sings
 9
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in -Shagg Crag »

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