All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to…

Rewritten

Name: Rewritten
Rating: 3.7

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Redgarden - Lumpe to the top

L › R R › L A › Z

	Abracadabra TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Alternate Erikson Start (Roof Wall) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Burning Chrome T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Burning Desire T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Chris Cross T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Cinders And Saints T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Color of Pomegranates, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Controlled Burn T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Culp-Raubach Finish T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Direct Variation to Zot Face T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Doris Gets Her Oats T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dream Weaver T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Everybody Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fanning the Flame T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Grand Course, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Grandmother's Challenge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Great Zot Variation A., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Great Zot, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Green Hornet, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Green Slab Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Green Slab-Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Green Sleeves T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Green Spur, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Heddie La Rue T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Hot Links T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Hot Spur, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Jonny Direct, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lost in Space T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Maverick T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Noodle Salad T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Northumberland Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	One Night Stand T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Paris Girl S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
	Piece of the Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Please Close Lid T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rabbits From Hats T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Razors to Rubble T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Rebuffat's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Red Dwarf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Rewritten T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rimmer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Roof Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Sayat-Nova S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Silver Raven T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Spur of the Moment T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Sunstar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Swanson Arete T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Tower Corner Exit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Twist and Crawl (aka Slice of Time) S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
	Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Waiting Room T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Warm and Fuzzy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	West Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Zot Face, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches
FA:	George Hurley, Bob Culp, John Link, 1967
Page Views:	174,578 total · 600/month
Shared By:	Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is another excellent classic on Redgarden Wall. Six pitches takes you to the summit of the Middle Buttress via Rebuffat's Arete. Start at the base of the West Chimney below the Middle Buttress about 15 feet left of an alcove.

P1 has a steep start but is only 5.6 up a nice crack (~110 feet). There are two cracks starting here. The thinner crack on the right is The Great Zot (8+) and is one of my favorite 5.8s in Eldo. Take your pick.

P2. Climb an easy pitch up to the Red Ledge arcing left. Look for a large eyebolt.

P3. Continue up the left-facing dihedral to a belay stance on the right (6).

P4. This is the crux and most exciting pitch. From the belay, traverse the hand crack left, pull around the arete, and continue up the steep and exposed hand crack. Belay on a ledge to the left of where previously existed a large, detached block or the right. Caution: this block fell down; this 6 foot high piece of rock used to rock back and forth if you pulled on it!

P5. Follow the crack to the right (5) or straight (8) up Rebuffat's Arete. The arete is recommended as it more spectacular. Belay at a tree in the large V on the left.

P6. Find a clean, 5.5 crack to the summit. This is a great short pitch also with a nice view and bomber gear.

Per Doug Haller: you can combine P5 & P6 with a 60 or 70m rope and save a belay, 140'.

Descent: downclimb a notch to the North back to the West side of Redgarden Wall. The notch is beyond several towers to the NW. If it doesn't look like easy 4th Class, keep going.

Per joshua larkin: there is now a bolted rap anchor west of the topout. A short rap gets you to a nice place to walk up (west) a little bit to rejoin the old descent trail.

Protection

Good pro for the whole climb--standard rack up to 3" with plenty of 12-24" slings and wired stoppers. A 48" runner is also useful for slinging large rock horns.