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Otter Cliffs Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Otter Cliffs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Flake, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	A Dare by the Sea T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Alcove TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Barnacle Bait TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Black Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Brochure Crack TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Cakewalk TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Capsized TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Child's Play TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Choppy Seas TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cliff Traverse V0-1 4+
	Climb of the Ancient Mariner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Coppertone TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Crab Meat TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Crab Roll T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Crucifix TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Deep Blue Sea TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dike Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Drunken Sailor T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Easy Corner (aka ? "Wonder Corner" ) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Ebb and Flow TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Engel Arete T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Face of the Sailor T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fisherman's Folly TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gallery Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Gallery, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Great Chimney (aka Chockstone Chimney), The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Great Chimney, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Greenway TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Greybeard TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Guillemot Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Guillotine T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	High Tide Girdle Traverse T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	In The Groove T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Inner Sanctum TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jamcrack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Lady Luck TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Maine Central TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Mermaid TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Mystic, The TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Nerve Damage TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Ocean Face TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Open Book TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Otter Cliff Ice TR WI3+
	Otter Point TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Out to Sea TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Outer Face T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Overhanging Corner T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Overview of Otter Cliffs "Sub-Areas" T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
	Peak Performance T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Plaque Crack TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Razorback TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Rising Tide TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rock Lobster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rogue Wave TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Rolling Swells TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Seabreeze T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Seafarer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Small Cove Problem V0+ 4+
	Sober Seaman T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Spray Deck TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Staircase T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Starfish TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	State of Maine TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stingray TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Submariner TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Summer Camp Corner TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Swing Time TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Tap Dance TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Terrace Exit T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wave Action TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	White Horses TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Whitecaps TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wiessner Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Wonder Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Wonder Wall - Right TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wonderwall - Left TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Yellow Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Zephyr TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:

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Elevation:	41 ft	12 m
GPS:	44.31194, -68.18919 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007 · Updates
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Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons Details

For details visit:
nps.gov/acad/planyourvisit/…

Description

Most famous and heavily used climbing area in Acadia. Toprope or rappel in to climb here.

Anchors are solid steel bars pounded into the top of the cliff because years of toproping here has killed many trees.

Excellent place for beginners to learn about climbing, the beauty of nature, and placing gear in a wet crack.

Beware high tides as your ropes will get soaked and your gear will be salt encrusted. the rock that the routes start on just gets underwater at the highest tide points. Tides change rapidly here, keep an eye on your time and check out the tide charts before you come.

Getting There

East side of Acadia National Park. Follow signs to Otter Cliffs, park and cross road towards ocean to find cliffs below you. Parking is extremely limited, consider parking outside the park and biking in or taking the shuttle service.

79 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Otter Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 141 ● In The Groove Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 207 ● The Great Chimney Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 85 ● Overhanging Corner Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 92 ● Easy Corner (aka ? "Wonder Corne… Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 4 ● Rising Tide TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 164 ● The Flake Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 85 ● Wonderwall - Left TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 101 ● Wonder Wall - Right TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 118 ● Wonder Wall Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 121 ● Yellow Wall Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 109 ● Rock Lobster Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 113 ● Peak Performance Trad, TR
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 116 ● Guillotine Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 215 ● A Dare by the Sea Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● High Tide Girdle Traverse Trad