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Mt. Willard (Ice) Climbing
| Elevation: | 2,557 ft | 779 m |
| GPS: |
44.20345, -71.41027 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 134,530 total · 649/month | |
| Shared By: | BrianWinslow on Feb 3, 2008 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
Winter Trains??? On Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. Later in the winter of 2018-19 the tracks became totally filled in. Whether The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR") might run winter (Christmas???) trains in years of low snowfall is not known. Act accordingly. R Hall NH Admin.
Though I wouldn't describe this area as an "alpine" area, it is very exposed and can be very cold in bad weather. The approach is somewhat technical and to retreat from some of the upper routes requires a rappel and some technical 4th class downclimbing.
The routes are spread out along the east and south faces. The East face can be broken into the lower and upper cliff bands and contain some great moderate climbs like Hitchcock Gully and the East Face Slabs as well as some tough mixed lines, like Dial M for Murder. The south face has a variety of climbs like the numbered gullies, Great Madness, and the Cinema Gully.
The routes offer great views over the notch and the large amount and variety of routes make Mt. Willard feel like an alpine playground.
Getting There
Access Update! Do not walk on railroad tracks to approach the climbing areas! The traditional way to get to Mt Willard ice climbing (Park at the top of the Notch in a plowed out parking lot, just south of the AMC Highland Center. Walk south along the railroad tracks to the bottom of the area in which you plan to climb.) is no longer allowed. The railroad company owns the tracks and they have clearly posted “No Trespassing” signs to indicate that they do not want climbers walking there. This is very unfortunate to say the least, but they have a legal right to deny us access to their property. If you walk on the tracks you could be fined or arrested. Trains will be running through the winter so be safe and be smart. Stay off the tracks.
Mt Willard is a very tricky situation. There is a trail from one of the pullouts down the hill from the one we have been using that may access some of the climbing but suffice to say, this is an ongoing situation and we do not have all the answers yet.
Sub-Areas are listed approximately south-to-north (OK, I know it's "backwards" if you're walking down the RR Tracks, but it's left-to-right consistent) R Hall NH Admin.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Willard (Ice)
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