Type: |
Trad, 310 ft (94 m), 3 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(5) |
FA: | Jim Erickson, John Behrens, Stand Badgett, 1969. |
Page Views: | 27,340 total · 94/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
I like this route even better than the adjacent and more popular West Buttress. It is steep, not too hard, and on positive holds the whole way. The first pitch has a reputation for being runout; this is only mildly true. The hard moves have good pro, and even the parts that look runout from down below have hidden stopper placements. There are multiple variations to the route above the 2nd bolt.
The first pitch is long, has a couple 5.9 moves at the start, and several more .8+ moves. 130 feet.
The second pitch climbs a steep .9+ crack over a bulge on positive holds. Heads up on this section though as it climbs loose unprotected rock up to the crux move which is well protected with a single stopper. Above the crux there is runout but cool .7 face climbing to the top. 180 feet. Great route.
The first pitch is long, has a couple 5.9 moves at the start, and several more .8+ moves. 130 feet.
The second pitch climbs a steep .9+ crack over a bulge on positive holds. Heads up on this section though as it climbs loose unprotected rock up to the crux move which is well protected with a single stopper. Above the crux there is runout but cool .7 face climbing to the top. 180 feet. Great route.
Protection
This is a slightly runout route. It has a pin & 2 bolts on the first pitch, the rest of the pitch takes medium stoppers, an RP, a couple TCUs and I slung a hole in the rock (quite bomber actually). There is a pin right of the final leftward traverse. The first belay is a double bolt anchor.
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