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Englishman's Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.6 from 38
votes
Routes in Hallett Peak
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Ad Nauseum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Block Party T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day Trippin' T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finch Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Northcutt-Carter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Owlbear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roomates Suck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | John Wharton, David Isles |
| Page Views: | 10,540 total · 45/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Berg on Jul 29, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Englishman's Route climbs the upper half of the 2nd buttress on Hallett. The most direct approach to Englishman's Route is to climb the bottom half of Better Than Love, but one could climb the Love Route, Culp-Bossier, or Hesse-Ferguson. From the ground, you can see a big, black, right-leaning crack above the white band that divides Hallett in half and to the right of the roof on the Love Route. The crack looks wet and it was wet when I did it. Fortunately, you stay to the right of this feature on beautiful face holds thus staying dry. This description only includes the pitches from the white band to the top.
Set your belay high up the white band or be willing to simul-climb or stop short of the belay I describe (there is another belay, slings on a chockstone in the big black crack with a sloping stance).
P1. Work your way to the crack then follow face holds and intermittent cracks on the face to the right of the big black crack. Positive holds lead to a nice but small belay (big nut and medium cam). Pro is good but like all routes in the area, it's a little run out.
P2. The next pitch follows more of the same holds but in the middle of the pitch you will have to traverse to the big black crack to find pro (#2 & #3 Camalots.) The pitch moves right with the crack until you come to an overlap. Crank over the overlap and establish a belay up and left. One could also go straight up or traverse right to other routes but we followed the photo from Scott Kimball's book.
P3. From here, it was one long pitch to the top with a 60m rope. We went left up a small, right-facing corner for 10 feet then traversed left on face holds under a small roof until arriving at a small left-facing corner. Sparse pro but more of those delightful face holds. The left-facing corner leads to the top but is broken up with a few ledges and a little more face climbing. Watch out for rope drag or break the pitch into two.
I felt that all of the pitches were a grade easier then what is given in the guidebooks. You just have to piece together the face holds correctly. The 5.8 pitch on Better Than Love was the crux of our day. Excellent rock, nice belays and killer exposure. It is a good choice if you have done the other classics on Hallett or if those routes are crowded.
Set your belay high up the white band or be willing to simul-climb or stop short of the belay I describe (there is another belay, slings on a chockstone in the big black crack with a sloping stance).
P1. Work your way to the crack then follow face holds and intermittent cracks on the face to the right of the big black crack. Positive holds lead to a nice but small belay (big nut and medium cam). Pro is good but like all routes in the area, it's a little run out.
P2. The next pitch follows more of the same holds but in the middle of the pitch you will have to traverse to the big black crack to find pro (#2 & #3 Camalots.) The pitch moves right with the crack until you come to an overlap. Crank over the overlap and establish a belay up and left. One could also go straight up or traverse right to other routes but we followed the photo from Scott Kimball's book.
P3. From here, it was one long pitch to the top with a 60m rope. We went left up a small, right-facing corner for 10 feet then traversed left on face holds under a small roof until arriving at a small left-facing corner. Sparse pro but more of those delightful face holds. The left-facing corner leads to the top but is broken up with a few ledges and a little more face climbing. Watch out for rope drag or break the pitch into two.
I felt that all of the pitches were a grade easier then what is given in the guidebooks. You just have to piece together the face holds correctly. The 5.8 pitch on Better Than Love was the crux of our day. Excellent rock, nice belays and killer exposure. It is a good choice if you have done the other classics on Hallett or if those routes are crowded.
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