Wind Tower - SW Face Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 5,899 ft | 1,798 m |
GPS: |
39.9315, -105.283 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 222,565 total · 766/month | |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 31, 2000 | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This popular rock can be divided in character into its south and southwest face. The SW face has some of the most frequently climbed routes in Eldorado Canyon and is probably the best area in Eldorado Canyon for those seeking lower end difficulty climbing. The rock is stellar for the first two pitches of climbs on this face. Above this the rock has seen less traffic and still has loose rock for the unsuspecting climber.
Famous climbers have been climbing this rock since the early 1950s. On occasion, you may find yourself face-to-face with a legendary climber soloing on by you as enjoy this rock.
Ultra-classics such as Calypso, 5.6 and Wind Ridge, 5.6 are great for beginners but often have long queues, please be patient. Pitch 3 of Wind Ridge has one of the most interesting roofs in all of Eldorado Canyon. Other good lines include Breezy, 5.4; The Bomb, 5.4; Boulder Direct, 5.5; the irascible Tigger, 5.5; Recon, 5.6; Reggae, 5.8; Wind Tower Slab, 5.9 TR; the slippery Tagger, 5.10b/c; and the impressive Salvation, 5.12a/b s.
Note, that according to Park statistics, Calypso is one of the most hazardous routes in the park, so protect it well.
Famous climbers have been climbing this rock since the early 1950s. On occasion, you may find yourself face-to-face with a legendary climber soloing on by you as enjoy this rock.
Ultra-classics such as Calypso, 5.6 and Wind Ridge, 5.6 are great for beginners but often have long queues, please be patient. Pitch 3 of Wind Ridge has one of the most interesting roofs in all of Eldorado Canyon. Other good lines include Breezy, 5.4; The Bomb, 5.4; Boulder Direct, 5.5; the irascible Tigger, 5.5; Recon, 5.6; Reggae, 5.8; Wind Tower Slab, 5.9 TR; the slippery Tagger, 5.10b/c; and the impressive Salvation, 5.12a/b s.
Note, that according to Park statistics, Calypso is one of the most hazardous routes in the park, so protect it well.
Getting There
The approach takes an arduous 5 min. from the parking lot. Take the bridge across S. Boulder Creek, then take the marked path up to the wall. Please stay on the path since it is well built to minimize erosion and rock slide.
Rappel descent from the summit
Per Tom Schulz: the rappel descent from the summit can be hard to find if you haven’t climbed in this area before. Cross to the other side of the wall, and scramble North without descending too far until you see a large cable. Follow the cable North, and continue in the same direction without descending once the cable terminates. You’ll pass downhill of a small rock formation. Look left and the rappel rings will be there. A short rappel will bring you back to the trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Wind Tower - SW Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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