Type: |
Trad
Fixed Hardware
(7) |
FA: | L. Hamilton and S. Weaver, FFA J.Achey, K.Lugbill |
Page Views: | 10,140 total · 41/month |
Shared By: | Darren Mabe on Apr 26, 2004 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
Description
EDIT: this is actually is named .30-06, and the right crack is Roadrunner.
This is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack if it's your first time on it (about 110' total).
Work up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks (and they are probably 30 years old...). There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.
EDIT: there is no fixed pin-tat-bail-anchor as of 8/6/08.
Traverse left underneath the big roof and fire up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering each other.
There are not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than Brennivin and Naked Kill. I think other climbers would agree that this is the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Crack' of Clear Creek Canyon).
This is the left crack of the two classic crack routes on the far right side of Wall of the '90s. The route is typically done in one pitch although breaking it up into two can lighten the rack if it's your first time on it (about 110' total).
Work up a few crack systems of varied sizes (.10-), with several rests to the optional pin cluster belay. Back up these pins, because they are between a few scary blocks (and they are probably 30 years old...). There used to be a webbing nest at these anchors for rapping, but I removed a couple of the loose pins awhile ago, along with the webbing and would not recommend using this anchor as a rap anchor.
EDIT: there is no fixed pin-tat-bail-anchor as of 8/6/08.
Traverse left underneath the big roof and fire up to the crux. (FYI, from the stance underneath the roof, you can escape left to the top anchors of Black and Tan.) The sporty crux (.12a) is protected by a few pins and then continues up the *steep* crack (.10+/.11-) thin hands, hands, fist. The pin at the crux held several of my falls, and was backed up by a bomber nut. The route ends at a two bolt rap anchor (where the three bad pins and UV-eaten sling used to be -- replaced with consent from FA). You can BARELY rap back to the ledges with a 60m, although I would suggest lowering each other.
There are not many other harder, trad lines in Clear Creek, other than Brennivin and Naked Kill. I think other climbers would agree that this is the CCC of CCC ('Country Club Crack' of Clear Creek Canyon).
21 Comments