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Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Liberty Bell Group
> Liberty Bell
Liberty Crack
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British C2
Avg: 3.7 from 138
votes
Routes in Liberty Bell
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A Servant To Liberty T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Beckey Route (SW Face) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dark Side of Liberty T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a V9-10 7C+ |
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Freedom or Death T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Freedom Rider T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Girl Next Door, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Independence Route, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Liberty and Injustice for All T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Liberty Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C2 |
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Liberty Crack (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Liberty Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Live Free or Die!™ T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b V5+ 6C+ |
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Northwest Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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NW Face Var. (Remsberg Variation) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Overexposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rapple Grapple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Serpentine Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sidewinder (Southwest Corner) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thin Red Line T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Steve Marts, Don McPherson and Fred Stanley - July 1965 |
| Page Views: | 36,460 total · 195/month |
| Shared By: | Scott Coldiron on Aug 9, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Location
Park at the turnout on the hairpin turn just east of Washington Pass on Highway 20. Walk back toward the pass, look for the pond on the south side of the road. At the East end of the pond, look for the trail heading into the woods. It is often marked with cairns. The Trail will bring you to the East Face of Liberty Bell.
Look to the left side of the East Face. The Liberty Crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof (2 pitches up)on its right side. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack.
Look to the left side of the East Face. The Liberty Crack is the obvious vertical crack which passes the large roof (2 pitches up)on its right side. Traverse in from the left for 40 feet on third or fourth class ledges. Belay the first aid pitch from these ledges at the base of the crack.
Protection
-1 60 m rope will work for a 1 day ascent. If in doubt, bring a tag line.
-1 set micro stoppers.
-1 set offsets,
-1 set reg. stoppers.
-doubles in TCU's or C3's #00-3.
-doubles in cams to 3"(c4 sizes .5-3).
-one #4 cam is optional. 3 48" slings. 12-16 trad draws.
-1 BD cliffhanger or similar hook is usually called for, but it is very easy to do without (even for inexperienced aid climbers).
-extra biners
-2 alpine etriers
-1 jumar 1 webbing loop, 1 Gri-Gri or similar. for jugging. (This method of jugging makes the Lithuaniun Lip easier to follow.
-or 2 jumars and webbing loops.
-1 set micro stoppers.
-1 set offsets,
-1 set reg. stoppers.
-doubles in TCU's or C3's #00-3.
-doubles in cams to 3"(c4 sizes .5-3).
-one #4 cam is optional. 3 48" slings. 12-16 trad draws.
-1 BD cliffhanger or similar hook is usually called for, but it is very easy to do without (even for inexperienced aid climbers).
-extra biners
-2 alpine etriers
-1 jumar 1 webbing loop, 1 Gri-Gri or similar. for jugging. (This method of jugging makes the Lithuaniun Lip easier to follow.
-or 2 jumars and webbing loops.
Note on the rating
This route has a range of ratings, depending on how much is aided. A few things to keep in mind:
1) The aid is all clean, and probably will seem like C1. No pins or hooks are needed (unless some fixed piece has come out).
2) With the same C1-C2 aid rating, one can do just up to 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, or 5.11 free climbing.
3) The only completely free ascent was done with a pre-placed static rope, and the moves over the Lithuanian Lip apparently has no recorded repeats.
1) The aid is all clean, and probably will seem like C1. No pins or hooks are needed (unless some fixed piece has come out).
2) With the same C1-C2 aid rating, one can do just up to 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, or 5.11 free climbing.
3) The only completely free ascent was done with a pre-placed static rope, and the moves over the Lithuanian Lip apparently has no recorded repeats.
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