Michael Wolfe > Forum Messages
Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Ballnuts in thin horizontal seams
Oct 28, 2024
I contemplated the "passive" ballnut placement and figured I would share my thoughts, for those interested. Below you will see some examples of the forces on the system in…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Ballnuts in thin horizontal seams
Oct 27, 2024
Thank you everyone for the thoughts. I ended up firing this headpoint today and did in fact nest two blue ballnuts in the horizontal seam with a sliding-X, shown below. In…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Petzl connect adjust vs OCUN sbea
Oct 21, 2024
Petzl Connect Adjust is the "brand X" when it comes to adjustable PAS lanyards. You won't go wrong there. The Ocun SBEA is a slightly bulkier clasp design, but with a major adv…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Ballnuts in thin horizontal seams
Oct 21, 2024
Regarding placement: I was worried in the opposite orientation (ball facing down, slider facing up), the thin cable connected to the ball would badly pinch on the sharp edge in…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Ballnuts in thin horizontal seams
Oct 20, 2024
I'm working on a headpoint in Devil's Lake Wisconsin. The crux is in ground-fall territory. However, the move could be protected by a blue ballnut that fits inside a small thin…
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Regional >
Midwest
Reply: East rampart @ Devils Lake WI 8/24—former EMT(?) i…
Aug 26, 2024
Aliyah W
wrote:
On the off chance that you see this, I wanted to thank you for helping him/us and sticking around through the rescue. It certainly was a relief coming aroun…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Edelrid spoc failure
Jul 25, 2024
Andre, can you describe how this failed in a little more detail? Did the spring snap, allowing the toothed cam to rotate freely and therefore it no longer engages the rope?
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Aaaagggrraaaa when is the black diamond C3 coming…
May 15, 2024
Ti ck
wrote:
Last week i found myself in a remote corner of linville, at the top of a new pitch with my partner’s rack z4s and c4s and my rack of c3s because i…
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Gear >
FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
Reply: FS: Brand new ice climbing gloves and ski touring…
Mar 29, 2024
Everything sold.
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Gear >
FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
Reply: FS: Carabiners up for grabs!
Mar 8, 2024
Pm'd!
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General >
Mountaineering
Effects of metal implants on avalanche transceivers
Jan 11, 2024
Black Diamond recently reported data on the range reduction of avalanche transceivers by electromagnetic interference (EMI) from common electronics (heated gloves, GPS watch, s…
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Gear >
FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
Reply: FS: Brand new ice climbing gloves and ski touring…
Jan 5, 2024
Pending three buyers....Patrick -
wrote:
How much for a ride up to Boho?For free, if it ever snows up there ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Gear >
FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
FS: Brand new ice climbing gloves and ski touring gloves
Jan 4, 2024
Both pairs of gloves are brand new, never used. C.A.M.P. - Geko Ice Pro (M). MRSP $149.95. Selling for $50. Glove designed for ice climbing and mixed climbing. C.A.M.…
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Regional >
Midwest
Opportunity to retract Wisconsin SNA climbing closures
Dec 4, 2023
There is an opportunity to participate in the revision of the State Administrative code NR 45, which governs the management of Wisconsin public lands. Among this code is NR 45.…
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Regional >
International
Reply: Access to Mt Fuji for winter ascent
Nov 18, 2023
I am more asking about people's experiences with winter ascents. It sounds like Dave has had no issue with winter access over the years. I'm wondering if this style of closure…
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Regional >
International
Access to Mt Fuji for winter ascent
Nov 14, 2023
I went to Fuji last week and was surprised to find the trail access completely barricaded. I understand some still do Fuji in the winter for the added challenge, so I was expec…
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Regional >
Midwest
Reply: New Wisconsin DNR master plan with opportunity to…
Oct 30, 2023
Bumping; public comment window closes Thursday. Below are examples of access issues which can be discussed in your public comment (see linked presentation above for more detail…
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Regional >
Midwest
New Wisconsin DNR master plan with opportunity to reopen…
Oct 26, 2023
The Wisconsin DNR has drafted a Master Plan for the Central Sand Hills Region for the management of climbing areas in this region. The draft is available for public comment her…
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General >
Injuries and Accidents
Reply: Seneca Rocks Accident 8/5
Aug 19, 2023
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mksafk9ASwMRyan from hownot2 has a synopsis on the speculations surrounding how this accident could have unfolded. He's open to ideas on how to…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: WANTED: Skills Clinic Ideas
Aug 11, 2023
I've been instructing at a University outdoor climbing program for a few years, and many of the suggestions here work really well for us. We teach clinics all the way from top-…
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Regional >
Midwest
Reply: Hillbilly Hollow
Jul 14, 2023
Burton Lindquist
wrote:
The Hollow continues to be a non issue with DOT ... that's about it as far as DOT says or will confirm... same with Necedah.I'm curious, Burt, what…
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General >
General Climbing
Reply: Physics Grad School
Jul 6, 2023
I'm a 5th year physics PhD student at UW Madison doing research in experimental quantum information. The University has a wide variety of experimental and theoretical groups in…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Best grigri compatible static rope for top rope an…
Jun 14, 2023
Ricky Harline
wrote:
I'm definitely going to play around with this. If you wanted to do a write up and post it to the TRS Facebook group loads of people there would really…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Best grigri compatible static rope for top rope an…
Jun 14, 2023
Ricky Harline
wrote:
Super curious about you getting a grigri to feed well in a TRS setup, that's pretty uncommon. Does the grigri end up slipping much when it engages or…
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Gear >
Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Best grigri compatible static rope for top rope an…
Jun 13, 2023
There are lots of options here. The Grigri is compatible with any rope within the 8.5 - 11 mm range. To answer what is "best" for the Grigri depends on application. Stiffer and…
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Regional >
Midwest
Reply: Devil's Lake / Governer Dodge top rope anchor spots
May 9, 2023
Areas that come to mind (in addition to Lindsey's) with easy TR anchor builds using only trees/boulders: Birthday Wall, Bedroom Amphitheater, Guillotine. Using webbing or…
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Regional >
Midwest
Reply: Learning trad in the Midwest
Sep 13, 2022
Here is a good list of easy protectable leads for beginners at Devil's Lake (https://www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/blog/12-easy-lead-routes-devils-lake-state-park). There ar…
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Regional >
Midwest
Reply: Quality Ratings
Jun 6, 2022
Here are some of my criteria that came to mind, in order of importance:Movement and flow. Did the climb encourage me to use my body in ways that felt organic, and sequences flo…
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Gear >
FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
Reply: Price drop: Cams, Nuts, hexes, draws, harnesses, rope
Jan 23, 2022
How long/thick is the static?
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