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Michael Wolfe > Forum Messages

Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Ballnuts in thin horizontal seams
Oct 28, 2024 I contemplated the "passive" ballnut placement and figured I would share my thoughts, for those interested. Below you will see some examples of the forces on the system in… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Ballnuts in thin horizontal seams
Oct 27, 2024 Thank you everyone for the thoughts. I ended up firing this headpoint today and did in fact nest two blue ballnuts in the horizontal seam with a sliding-X, shown below. In… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Petzl connect adjust vs OCUN sbea
Oct 21, 2024 Petzl Connect Adjust is the "brand X" when it comes to adjustable PAS lanyards. You won't go wrong there. The Ocun SBEA is a slightly bulkier clasp design, but with a major adv… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Ballnuts in thin horizontal seams
Oct 21, 2024 Regarding placement: I was worried in the opposite orientation (ball facing down, slider facing up), the thin cable connected to the ball would badly pinch on the sharp edge in… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Ballnuts in thin horizontal seams
Oct 20, 2024 I'm working on a headpoint in Devil's Lake Wisconsin. The crux is in ground-fall territory. However, the move could be protected by a blue ballnut that fits inside a small thin… View Message
Regional > Midwest
Reply: East rampart @ Devils Lake WI 8/24—former EMT(?) i…
Aug 26, 2024 Aliyah W wrote: On the off chance that you see this, I wanted to thank you for helping him/us and sticking around through the rescue. It certainly was a relief coming aroun… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Edelrid spoc failure
Jul 25, 2024 Andre, can you describe how this failed in a little more detail? Did the spring snap, allowing the toothed cam to rotate freely and therefore it no longer engages the rope?  View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Aaaagggrraaaa when is the black diamond C3 coming…
May 15, 2024 Ti ck wrote: Last week  i found myself in a remote corner of linville, at the top of a new pitch with my partner’s rack z4s and c4s and my rack of c3s because i… View Message
Gear > FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
Reply: FS: Brand new ice climbing gloves and ski touring…
Mar 29, 2024 Everything sold. View Message
Gear > FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
Reply: FS: Carabiners up for grabs!
Mar 8, 2024 Pm'd! View Message
General > Mountaineering
Effects of metal implants on avalanche transceivers
Jan 11, 2024 Black Diamond recently reported data on the range reduction of avalanche transceivers by electromagnetic interference (EMI) from common electronics (heated gloves, GPS watch, s… View Message
Gear > FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
Reply: FS: Brand new ice climbing gloves and ski touring…
Jan 5, 2024 Pending three buyers....Patrick - wrote: How much for a ride up to Boho?For free, if it ever snows up there ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ View Message
Gear > FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
FS: Brand new ice climbing gloves and ski touring gloves
Jan 4, 2024 Both pairs of gloves are brand new, never used. C.A.M.P. - Geko Ice Pro (M). MRSP $149.95. Selling for $50. Glove designed for ice climbing and mixed climbing. C.A.M.… View Message
Regional > Midwest
Opportunity to retract Wisconsin SNA climbing closures
Dec 4, 2023 There is an opportunity to participate in the revision of the State Administrative code NR 45, which governs the management of Wisconsin public lands. Among this code is NR 45.… View Message
Regional > International
Reply: Access to Mt Fuji for winter ascent
Nov 18, 2023 I am more asking about people's experiences with winter ascents. It sounds like Dave has had no issue with winter access over the years. I'm wondering if this style of closure… View Message
Regional > International
Access to Mt Fuji for winter ascent
Nov 14, 2023 I went to Fuji last week and was surprised to find the trail access completely barricaded. I understand some still do Fuji in the winter for the added challenge, so I was expec… View Message
Regional > Midwest
Reply: New Wisconsin DNR master plan with opportunity to…
Oct 30, 2023 Bumping; public comment window closes Thursday. Below are examples of access issues which can be discussed in your public comment (see linked presentation above for more detail… View Message
Regional > Midwest
New Wisconsin DNR master plan with opportunity to reopen…
Oct 26, 2023 The Wisconsin DNR has drafted a Master Plan for the Central Sand Hills Region for the management of climbing areas in this region. The draft is available for public comment her… View Message
General > Injuries and Accidents
Reply: Seneca Rocks Accident 8/5
Aug 19, 2023 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mksafk9ASwMRyan from hownot2 has a synopsis on the speculations surrounding how this accident could have unfolded. He's open to ideas on how to… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: WANTED: Skills Clinic Ideas
Aug 11, 2023 I've been instructing at a University outdoor climbing program for a few years, and many of the suggestions here work really well for us. We teach clinics all the way from top-… View Message
Regional > Midwest
Reply: Hillbilly Hollow
Jul 14, 2023 Burton Lindquist wrote: The Hollow continues to be a non issue with DOT ... that's about it as far as DOT says or will confirm... same with Necedah.I'm curious, Burt, what… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Physics Grad School
Jul 6, 2023 I'm a 5th year physics PhD student at UW Madison doing research in experimental quantum information. The University has a wide variety of experimental and theoretical groups in… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Best grigri compatible static rope for top rope an…
Jun 14, 2023 Ricky Harline wrote: I'm definitely going to play around with this. If you wanted to do a write up and post it to the TRS Facebook group loads of people there would really… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Best grigri compatible static rope for top rope an…
Jun 14, 2023 Ricky Harline wrote: Super curious about you getting a grigri to feed well in a TRS setup, that's pretty uncommon. Does the grigri end up slipping much when it engages or… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Best grigri compatible static rope for top rope an…
Jun 13, 2023 There are lots of options here. The Grigri is compatible with any rope within the 8.5 - 11 mm range. To answer what is "best" for the Grigri depends on application. Stiffer and… View Message
Regional > Midwest
Reply: Devil's Lake / Governer Dodge top rope anchor spots
May 9, 2023 Areas that come to mind (in addition to Lindsey's) with easy TR anchor builds using only trees/boulders: Birthday Wall, Bedroom Amphitheater, Guillotine. Using webbing or… View Message
Regional > Midwest
Reply: Learning trad in the Midwest
Sep 13, 2022 Here is a good list of easy protectable leads for beginners at Devil's Lake (https://www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/blog/12-easy-lead-routes-devils-lake-state-park). There ar… View Message
Regional > Midwest
Reply: Quality Ratings
Jun 6, 2022 Here are some of my criteria that came to mind, in order of importance:Movement and flow. Did the climb encourage me to use my body in ways that felt organic, and sequences flo… View Message
Gear > FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT TO BUY
Reply: Price drop: Cams, Nuts, hexes, draws, harnesses, rope
Jan 23, 2022 How long/thick is the static?  View Message
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