Alois Smrz > Forum Messages

Dec 16, 2020 " your car is a half mile away...." That is if you have the headlamp and car keys with you and not in the pack on the other side of the rock... View Message

Dec 16, 2020 January 2000, Penelope and I decided to scramble up North Buttress after partying the night before. We started at noon, it was easy climbing, we would dispense with it in coupl… View Message

Dec 15, 2020 What is interesting to me, El Whampo's technical climbing basically ends above  the 5.7 pitch or so. The route runs into the NE Rib route, which goes at +- 5.2 and locals… View Message

Dec 15, 2020 It all depends on the ice and hard snow conditions, doesn't that? If the ice is soft enough, using the adze can be not just preferable, it can be the only way to safeguard upwa… View Message

Nov 15, 2020 In the fall of 2009, there was a wonderful meeting of theTahquitz old guard in Idyllwild. During the evening, Royal actually said to me and several other people present, that h… View Message

Aug 28, 2020 IMO we soon find that one tent is really not enough for all situations and seasons. One thing is a light tent for summer Sierra (for ex.), another is mountaineering tent for gl… View Message

Aug 25, 2020 Weekends on Tahquitz are extremely busy. Temps in Idyllwild the last few days were about 84 high, mornings are cool  and comfortable. Start very early, before 7 am. Also t… View Message

Aug 24, 2020 A British friend of mine did the NE Ridge of Badile to learn the descent for their later (successful) ascent of the famed Cassin Route last year. He thought the NE Ridge was fa… View Message

Aug 23, 2020 Best 5.6 in the world!? That's a tall order. There are fantastic climbs at this light rating just about everywhere where there are rocks. I started on Tahquitz Rock here in Sou… View Message

Aug 23, 2020 This is for Guy KeeseeBest wishes for complete recovery. Hoping you get back out there rally soon. Cheers, Alois. View Message

Aug 22, 2020 For my money the 2 person Bibler is still the ticket. About 4.5 lbs, works everywhere, rain or snow or wind.. My wife has had one for about 20 years, Mine is close to 30 years… View Message

Aug 11, 2020 I have two of them. Pirate at Suicide and Equinox at J Tree. Both must be among the best ( and hardest?) in So Cal. View Message

Aug 9, 2020 For many years, I carried just a bivi sack in the Sierra during the summer time. In 2003, my wife and I did East Buttress of Whitney and about 10 minutes after we got down… View Message

Aug 4, 2020 Dallas R:Wife and I were sitting in our downstairs office at the end of gloomy and snowy December day in Idyllwild. Suddenly, a guy appears at our sliding door, screaming help… View Message

Aug 3, 2020 That's really cool, Brian. What a great way to get some extra space.  View Message

Aug 1, 2020 Hi RyanPretty funny, we should most likely not park site by site...I hear you with the tires. We blew two Wranglers in the last 4 years and will buy "E" rated tires next time.… View Message

Jul 31, 2020 I just found this post. I have 2016 Ford 150 4x4, 6 foot bed, and on it Northstar TC 650 (2011) pop up camper. Works great for my wife and me. We have spent about 3-4 months ea… View Message

Jun 8, 2020 MurfRegarding the Lily Rock vs Tahquitz, The locals have always called the Rock "Lily", after the Lemon Lily flower which grew all around the San Jacinto Mountains in the late… View Message

Jun 7, 2020 I placed the last one in 2015 and left my phone number for people to call if it was full. It was still there last fall, I checked. The previous one is at Idy historical society… View Message

May 14, 2020 JamesFlaunting the closure rules is not cool, that's for sure. It will be those of us, who use these roads and access points into the backcountry the most, who will be affected… View Message

May 14, 2020 GuysIn winter time, the Black Mountain locked gate has been bypassed by 4 x 4 enthusiasts for years. Climbers rarely go there in the winter (when the gate is closed and snow is… View Message

May 12, 2020 JimmyI have not been there this spring, but every year by May 1, the gate is open. Do give a call to the Idy Ranger Station (909) 382-2921 to be sure. The road is pretty bad be… View Message

May 7, 2020 Brian RossTahquitz Rock is not a County Park. It is an alpine crag, in an area that has (consistently) four distinct seasons and plenty of ice and snow  in the winter. &nb… View Message

May 6, 2020 Allen Sanderson, regarding my choice of words...I guess I was not thinking clearly. Did not mean to imply that there are generational issues here. I should have used better wor… View Message

May 6, 2020 Unfortunately, accidents on Tahquitz and Suicide are here to stay. We live in sight of the rock (Tahquitz) and hear the chopper about once a week, maybe more. Lived here 20 yea… View Message

May 5, 2020 There are plenty of examples of altered routes, retrobolting/altering of existing routes, and/or  power drilling of sport routes in the Wilderness areas of California. &nb… View Message

Apr 30, 2020 Hey Guy,How are you buddy?We had fun on that one. This was right after Miguel had a very serious back surgery and for a year, he didn't go anywhere. This was the first trip out… View Message

Apr 29, 2020 Access to "Rest and be Thankful" is via 6+ hours (if you don't have it wired) from The Stonehouse to the flat spots (with water) below the  Arete via the south stream of T… View Message

Jan 29, 2020 To Professor LI have read the entire post. The OP states the obvious, but there are several posts, some from people who just want to create chaos (no doubt) and a few, who are… View Message

Jan 28, 2020 From my point of view, adding bolts to routes on Tahquitz is almost sacrilegious. The place is like a national shrine. American climbing history was made here for many years. S… View Message