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Alois Smrz

Idyllwild, CA
76 years old · Male
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More About Alois Drop down
Member Since
Dec 19, 2019
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
1,462 Points
Point Rank: #0 DetailsDrop down
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I first tied into rope in 1964 in the Bohemian Paradise (Prachov Towers) area of the Czech Republic. Came to the US in 1970. Had the good fortune to find great people to share the rope with ever since. Moved to Idyllwild full time in 2003. My wife Penelope and I still climb (scramble ?) on Tahquitz, in the Sierra and other western US ranges. If you read my messages, please forgive my occasional total destruction of your language, I'm doing my best.

Comments View All 51

Jul 1, 2024
Eastern Sierra > Lee Vining Cany… > Dana Plateau
One That Almost Got Away 5.10b A2-3
● I understand that in later years, several bolts were added to the route by others. Miguel and I didn't dri… View Comment
Jun 28, 2024
Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Outward Bound Slab
Mastering Five-Two 5.2 PG13
● The start is a bit funky. The pro for the first couple moves in the crack is marginal. If the leader is fa… View Comment
Jun 20, 2024
Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Cathedral Peak > Southeast Slopes
Southeast Buttress 5.6
● This can be a fantastic winter ski/climb combo skiing from Lee Vining (closed gate on Tioga Road) all the w… View Comment
Jun 20, 2024
S America > Argentina > Mendoza > Aconcagua Provi… > Cerro Aconcagua
Normal Route Easy Snow
● In good weather, this is almost trivial (minus the elevation). In bad weather, the winds can be so strong,… View Comment
Jun 19, 2024
High Sierra > 08 - Bishop Pas… > Mt Mendel
Right Mendel Couloir 5.7 WI3+ Steep Snow
● IMO, (also see Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, ICE section) Alpine ice forms from summer snow that ha… View Comment
Jun 18, 2024
High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
North Ridge 5.6
● The Pullharder guys might have been the first to climb the Complete North Ridge (from the desert floor) in… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 138

Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Cam re-sling advice
Nov 1, 2024 JackI would cut the slings off the  2 HB cams and replace them with Blue Water 5/8" Climb-Spec or equivalent Tubular Webbing. Tie each of the sling with Water knot and saw… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Armando Menocal - Access Fund Founder RIP
Oct 22, 2024 Armando Menocal, Rich Henke and I had some good times skiing the Arc Dome in Nevada in the winter of 1995.So sorry to hear of Armando's passing. What a towering person. RIP. View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: whats a good approach shoe for the grand teton?
Aug 13, 2024 If you go in July and August and the mountains are dry, any decent approach shoe will do. But if you manage to hit the peaks after a snow storm (and with ice on the upper… View Message
General > Trad Climbing
Reply: Are rescue skills necessary?
Aug 12, 2024 ALWAYS BE MASTER OF TIME:Backcountry time is not a clock time. It is measured by your ability to cope, by hazards, visibility, terrain, and the weather. If you must be somewher… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: New and experienced climbers over 50 #30
Aug 8, 2024 My 29 years in IT were pretty stressful, if interesting. Working in the Network Center environment, 24/7 with 3 days of 12 hours shifts and 4 days off allowed time for climbing… View Message
Regional > Southern California
Reply: Tahquitz & Suicide litters
Jul 7, 2024 apogee said:" I'm pretty sure the placement of these litters pre-dates SCMA & Secor- they likely assisted the replacement process at some point, and SCMA was stashing one o… View Message

Route Scores View All 339

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Czech Pillar
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3
 1
● One That Almost Got Away
Trad, Aid 7 pitches
Eastern Sierra > Lee Vining Cany… > Dana Plateau
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
● Land of Little Rain
Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
● North Buttress
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
High Sierra > 05 - Convict La… > Piscator Peak
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 83
● Mechanic's Route
Trad 3 pitches
Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 47
● Original Route
Trad 2 pitches
Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Lady Mountain
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Czech Pillar High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
Avg:  1
Alois:
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9
● One That Almost Got Away Eastern Sierra > Lee Vining Cany… > Dana Plateau
Avg:  1
Alois:
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 Trad, Aid 7 pitches
5.10b A2-3
● Land of Little Rain High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
Avg:  1
Alois:
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 16 pitches
5.10c/d
● North Buttress High Sierra > 05 - Convict La… > Piscator Peak
Avg:  3
Alois:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
● Mechanic's Route Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area
Avg:  83
Alois:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad 3 pitches
● Original Route Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Lady Mountain
Avg:  47
Alois:
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
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