Mountain Project Logo
Climb
MTB
Hike
Trailrun
Ski
Limited Time70% OffonX Backcountry

Alois Smrz

Idyllwild, CA
76 years old · Male
Contact Alois
Ignore User
More About Alois Drop down
Member Since
Dec 19, 2019
Last Visit: 27 mins ago
1,622 Points
Point Rank: #0 DetailsDrop down
Likes Trad
More Info
I first tied into rope in 1964 in the Bohemian Paradise (Prachov Towers) area of the Czech Republic. Came to the US in 1970. Had the good fortune to find great people to share the rope with ever since. Moved to Idyllwild full time in 2003. My wife Penelope and I still climb (scramble ?) on Tahquitz, in the Sierra and other western US ranges. If you read my messages, please forgive my occasional total destruction of your language, I'm doing my best.

Comments View All 56

Apr 18, 2025
Sequoia & Kings… > Castle Rocks > Castle Rock Spire
Miguel Carmona (L) and I after the 15th ascent of the Regular Route on Castle Rock Spire in 1988.
● Thanks, Christopher, But what a place. Some of the best adventure climbing in the Western Sierra. Absolute… View Comment
Feb 15, 2025
Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (h) Open Book Area
Green Arch 5.11c
● Even all those years ago, none of the pins were solid. The arch, moving a bit with temperatures, loosens th… View Comment
Jan 16, 2025
Alpine Rock > Sangre de Crist… > Crestolita > Analemma aka Northeas… (4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b)
Gain the grassy ledges to the left of the large roof. The route continues above the roof and to the left of the gully with snow.
● Thanks for this photo. We have been trying to find where the NE Ridge route goes. It looks like this might… View Comment
Nov 24, 2024
Joshua Tree NP > … > Wonderland North > Middle Kingdom > Land's End Area > Easy Buttress
Easy Buttress-Left 5.2
● This is an excellent route on clean, well protected crack and face. IMO, one of the best easy routes in J T… View Comment
Nov 24, 2024
Joshua Tree NP > … > Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
Yellow Peril 5.5
● The last 15 or 20 feet are somewhat wide. Some people might protect this section with #5 Friend or equivale… View Comment
Jul 1, 2024
Eastern Sierra > Lee Vining Cany… > Dana Plateau
One That Almost Got Away 5.10b A2-3
● I understand that in later years, several bolts were added to the route by others. Miguel and I didn't dri… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 151

Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Western Mountaineering Ultralite?
Apr 18, 2025 My wife Penelope has had this bag since 2002. It's an excellent bag for summer trips. She slept in it in 2009 on our JMT trip and had no issues. She sleeps cold and this bag, w… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Hexes: Active or Passive?
Apr 16, 2025 Andrew50 meters, single, 11 mm, Kernmantle. Some people were still using Goldline ropes in the late 70s. . View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Hexes: Active or Passive?
Apr 16, 2025 I bought the full set of Friends in 1978 ?. I was in Yosemite and some guy (Jardine?) was selling these from his car. They were cheep. I still have the same complete set as my… View Message
Regional > Southern California
Reply: Joshua Tree vs High Sierra Grades
Apr 16, 2025 Guy, re the CRS, you would know......Some people also say that the CRS is the hardest summit in the Sierra Nevada to get up on, by REGULAR route, being grade IV, 5.11b or so, w… View Message
Regional > Southern California
Reply: Tahquitz conditions currently
Apr 14, 2025 CharlieThe yellow sites you mentioned. If you mean those up to South Ridge trail, they are still there. The road is a bit bumpy and rutted but you might get up there. Ideology… View Message
Regional > Southern California
Reply: Joshua Tree vs High Sierra Grades
Apr 14, 2025 ChristopherI think I might have missed what I wanted to say, just a bit. J Tree has had some serious standards that were set many years ago. The climbing there is not easy by a… View Message

Route Scores View All 362

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 25
● Northeast Arete
Trad, Alpine
Southwest Region > Paradise Valley > Cowen Massif
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1,688
● Dark Shadows
Trad 4 pitches
Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 204
● The Chief
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 139
● Route 66
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 184
● Johnny Quest
Trad 2 pitches
Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 259
● Sidewinder
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > Steve Canyon > Sidewinder Rock - W Face
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Northeast Arete Southwest Region > Paradise Valley > Cowen Massif
Avg:  25
Alois:
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
● Dark Shadows Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
Avg:  1,688
Alois:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
● The Chief Joshua Tree NP > … > N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
Avg:  204
Alois:
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Route 66 Joshua Tree NP > … > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
Avg:  139
Alois:
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
● Johnny Quest Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
Avg:  184
Alois:
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Sidewinder Joshua Tree NP > … > Steve Canyon > Sidewinder Rock - W Face
Avg:  259
Alois:
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started