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Alois Smrz

Idyllwild, CA
76 years old · Male
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More About Alois Drop down
Member Since
Dec 19, 2019
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
1,492 Points
Point Rank: #0 DetailsDrop down
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More Info
I first tied into rope in 1964 in the Bohemian Paradise (Prachov Towers) area of the Czech Republic. Came to the US in 1970. Had the good fortune to find great people to share the rope with ever since. Moved to Idyllwild full time in 2003. My wife Penelope and I still climb (scramble ?) on Tahquitz, in the Sierra and other western US ranges. If you read my messages, please forgive my occasional total destruction of your language, I'm doing my best.

Comments View All 54

Jan 16, 2025
Alpine Rock > Sangre de Crist… > Crestolita > Analemma aka Northeas… (4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b)
Gain the grassy ledges to the left of the large roof. The route continues above the roof and to the left of the gully with snow.
● Thanks for this photo. We have been trying to find where the NE Ridge route goes. It looks like this might… View Comment
Nov 24, 2024
Joshua Tree NP > … > Wonderland North > Middle Kingdom > Land's End Area > Easy Buttress
Easy Buttress-Left 5.2
● This is an excellent route on clean, well protected crack and face. IMO, one of the best easy routes in J T… View Comment
Nov 24, 2024
Joshua Tree NP > … > Middle Kingdom > Outer Mongolia > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
Yellow Peril 5.5
● The last 15 or 20 feet are somewhat wide. Some people might protect this section with #5 Friend or equivale… View Comment
Jul 1, 2024
Eastern Sierra > Lee Vining Cany… > Dana Plateau
One That Almost Got Away 5.10b A2-3
● I understand that in later years, several bolts were added to the route by others. Miguel and I didn't dri… View Comment
Jun 28, 2024
Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Outward Bound Slab
Mastering Five-Two 5.2 PG13
● The start is a bit funky. The pro for the first couple moves in the crack is marginal. If the leader is fa… View Comment
Jun 20, 2024
Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Cathedral Range > Cathedral Peak > Southeast Slopes
Southeast Buttress 5.6
● This can be a fantastic winter ski/climb combo skiing from Lee Vining (closed gate on Tioga Road) all the w… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 142

General > Mountaineering
Reply: 1 or 2 ice axes?
Feb 8, 2025 ConnorIt all depends on how you intend to progress on technical ice. The lower angle slopes can be climbed with just crampons and ski poles. When the terrain gets a bit steeper… View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Reputable Cam Resling Service?
Feb 7, 2025 Same as above re. Mountain Tools. Honest work, quality you can trust. Had the whole rack re-done last year, Larry Arthur and Jane did great job with it. Highly recommended. View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Am I on Belay?
Jan 2, 2025 When you are off the ground, as on second pitch of a climb, even if the leader is climbing above the anchors and has yet no pro in, he/she must be on belay. The gym analogy doe… View Message
Regional > Southern California
Reply: Current Conditions in Idyllwild
Dec 20, 2024 Temps in the mid 60s. Very warm for this time of year. Totally dry terrain all the way to 9,000' +. As of Wednesday mid day, Humber Park was open. View Message
Gear > Climbing Gear Discussion
Reply: Cam re-sling advice
Nov 1, 2024 JackI would cut the slings off the  2 HB cams and replace them with Blue Water 5/8" Climb-Spec or equivalent Tubular Webbing. Tie each of the sling with Water knot and saw… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: Armando Menocal - Access Fund Founder RIP
Oct 22, 2024 Armando Menocal, Rich Henke and I had some good times skiing the Arc Dome in Nevada in the winter of 1995.So sorry to hear of Armando's passing. What a towering person. RIP. View Message

Route Scores View All 360

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1,646
● Dark Shadows
Trad 4 pitches
Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 200
● The Chief
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 136
● Route 66
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 183
● Johnny Quest
Trad 2 pitches
Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 259
● Sidewinder
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > Steve Canyon > Sidewinder Rock - W Face
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 5
● Easy Buttress-Left
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > Land's End Area > Easy Buttress
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Dark Shadows Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
Avg:  1,646
Alois:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
● The Chief Joshua Tree NP > … > N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
Avg:  200
Alois:
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Route 66 Joshua Tree NP > … > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
Avg:  136
Alois:
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
● Johnny Quest Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (u) Northeast Buttress
Avg:  183
Alois:
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Sidewinder Joshua Tree NP > … > Steve Canyon > Sidewinder Rock - W Face
Avg:  259
Alois:
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
● Easy Buttress-Left Joshua Tree NP > … > Land's End Area > Easy Buttress
Avg:  5
Alois:
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad
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