| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Reigning Rainbows
|
Los Alamos & Wh…
> …
> Overlook
> South/E side
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 26, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Bunch of falls at the roof crux, didn’t manage to pull it! At the roof, there are crimps on the right, a crimp on the left, and hidden behind that a big juggy hueco
Probably best is to crimp right on the highest crimp, then go left to the hueco. Cross with the right works too, but the left has to take a meh undercling pinch in the hueco
Coulda pulled this if I were fresh!
|
|
●
Polly's Crack
|
Los Alamos & Wh…
> …
> Overlook
> South/E side
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, TR
|
|
Nov 26, 2024 · Lead / Flash. This was the hardest I’ve fought for a climb, but I sent! My left elbow was totally shot and I could barely use it at the end. Takes 0.3-4 cams. Easier to escape left at the end and lower off the 11
|
|
●
Headwall Crack Left
|
Los Alamos & Wh…
> …
> Overlook
> South/E side
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, TR
|
|
Nov 26, 2024 · Follow. Fun cruisy stemmy climbing. Almost all hands until the upper off-hands section. There are face holds to bypass the offwidth movement
|
|
●
Headwall Crack Right
|
Los Alamos & Wh…
> …
> Overlook
> South/E side
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad, TR
|
|
Nov 26, 2024 · Follow. 5.7 until the burly 5.9 offwidth/layback at the top! Bring that #4 to keep it G
|
|
●
Cholla Crack
|
Los Alamos & Wh…
> …
> Overlook
> South/E side
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad, TR
|
|
Nov 26, 2024 · Follow. Enjoyed following this crack. There’s a tricky move early on, and a few more tricky moves towards the top where it gets offwidth. Cruisy
|
|
●
Holy Wall
|
Los Alamos & Wh…
> …
> Overlook
> South/E side
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sport, TR
|
|
Nov 26, 2024 · Lead / Flash. This feels like a soft 10a. The hard part is finding the good holds, but there are decent incut holds for every move. Really fun and sustained; no one crux, it just keeps coming at you
|
|
●
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at…
|
Los Alamos & Wh…
> …
> Overlook
> South/E side
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport, TR
|
|
Nov 26, 2024 · Follow.
|
|
●
Way Beyond Zebra
|
Los Alamos & Wh…
> …
> Overlook
> South/E side
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport, TR
|
|
Nov 26, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Several takes. Great option to come back and project; the bolts are super tightly spaced and the falls are quite clean. The bolts can be reached from the climb to the right.
Towards the top, there’s a spot where the good holds thin out and there’s a slopy crimpy horizontal. There’s an okay spot; best to grab the crimp a bit lower and far left, then lock off to the positive crimp flake
Just below the chains is the crux — incut crimps, a good pocket to clip off, up to the finish rail.
Maybe one day I can come back, tick the holds, prehang the draws, and send it
|
|
●
Deeper is Better
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Drive-By Crag
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 15, 2024 · TR. This was really fun. Had to hang a few times due to pump. Got no hand crack moves but got some toe jams. Some folks from Wyoming let me TR on their rope
|
|
●
A Wave New World
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Drive-By Crag
|
271
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 15, 2024 · TR. Many falls at the 3rd bolt & after the ledge. Bouldery moves!
|
|
●
Make A Wish
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Drive-By Crag
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 15, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell after the 6th bolt; got the hueco but tried to get a left hold that didn’t work well. Much better to cross and pinch between the upper pockets with left, then right hand in the upper pocket, then clip 7th
|
|
●
Make A Wish
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Drive-By Crag
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 15, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Great climbing, slightly pumpy but great holds. Go right at the big ledge. Fell twice at the 6th bolt; beta — go left to the pinch, right hand in the hueco. Finish is a mantle
|
|
●
Fire and Brimstone
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Drive-By Crag
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 15, 2024 · TR. Hard! Pumped out a few times, but the good rests are there if you take them
I think the runout between bolts 2 & 3 could be cut with some micro gear — ball nuts or brassies
Watched Ki cruise the 12a adjacent to it on my way up; wish I had a camera up there!
|
|
●
Seeds N Stems
|
Red River Gorge
> Pendergrass-Mur…
> Bob Marley
|
4
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Nov 15, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell after bolt 2, hung at 3. Mossy, crumbly, sharp, and unchalked. But the good holds are there, the bolts are close, the falls are clean! Crux is getting onto the ledge
|
|
●
The Glass Elevator
|
Red River Gorge
> Bald Rock Recre…
> Chocolate Factory
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 13, 2024 · TR. This was much harder than its neighbors; had to aid one small section.
This was a decent climb; much more technical with smaller and more painful holds than Oompa or Loompa.
Happy Ki lead it; seems like some of those clips would have been hard to make, and unclipping was hard!
|
|
●
EGBG
|
Red River Gorge
> Bald Rock Recre…
> Chocolate Factory
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Nov 13, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. This is a phenomenal climb. Probably the longest we’ve done on this trip so far, great holds for the most part!
Hung at bolts 2 and 4 (or was it 5?)
To the 3rd bolt, there’s a crimp up and right of the 2nd bolt that you can use to lock off to the 3rd
Up the face, It’s tempting to go right into the jugs left, but I think the climb is more sustained (and possible!) staying right.
Up the final overhang, to the last bolt, it’s tempting to go right into the cozy crack, but then you traverse in at the chalked up holds with the bolt at or below your hip. Kacy was able to shoot up left of the bolt, which is probably less scary but more pumpy
I also got a fantastic heel-toe cam by the second bolt. Totally bomber but a bit spooky!
|
|
●
Loompa
|
Red River Gorge
> Bald Rock Recre…
> Chocolate Factory
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 13, 2024 · TR. Ki lead. More interesting twisty, reachy motion on bigger holds than Oompa. No move was “hard”, but very sustained. Classic!
|
|
●
Oompa
|
Red River Gorge
> Bald Rock Recre…
> Chocolate Factory
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 13, 2024 · TR. Ki lead. Many, many takes! Fun, very pumpy. The climbing got a bit non-obvious section high up, but there was a secret two finger pocket out left hidden behind a sloper.
|
|
●
Dynabolt Gold
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Great Wall
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Nov 12, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell about halfway up — got pumped, couldn’t find the good holds (just slopers), and whipped
Really enjoyed this climb, although there were a few sections that felt a bit dicey
|
|
●
Bitter Ray of Sunshine
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Great Wall
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 12, 2024 · TR. The best of the 10s at this wall!
|
|
●
Touch of Grey
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Great Wall
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 12, 2024 · TR. Many falls due to pump, but no one move shut me down
|
|
●
Glory and Consequence
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Great Wall
|
|
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Nov 12, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Fell at the start by not traversing right enough. Got back on for an RP. Hard for a 7 — pumpy, sustained, and many of the holds weren’t super positive
|
|
●
Ledgends of Limonite
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Great Wall
|
|
187
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Nov 12, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. I think I tried this Oct 2017, so marking it as a RP. Might be an onsight because I think I tried the direct and gave up before intersecting with the 8?
Fun, pretty chill, not pumpy climbing. Wanders a bit
|
|
●
Ledgends of Limonite (direc…
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Great Wall
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 12, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Attempt, tried doing the right heel but fell
|
|
●
Air Ride Equipped
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Solarium
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Nov 12, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell after the 6th bolt. Harv belayed. Used the left Gaston/fingerlock for the start. For the second crux at bolt 2, got the left hand 1 (I) & 2 (RM) finger pocket pairs, the crank to the ledge. At the rest ledge by bolt 4, got hand & fist jams in the horizontal crack. Fell holding the jug level with the 7th clip, lowered from there.
First ledge is sit down. Second ledge is theoretically hands free, but it’s easier to clip/recover with the jams
|
|
●
Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Tectonic Wall
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2024 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell after the 5th bolt! Gotta come back for the send later. Getting onto that ledge is tricky. Lots of pinches and jugs, like plate tectonic. Amy got some great photos. Harv caught the whip
|
|
●
Plate Tectonics
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Tectonic Wall
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. What a classic! Beautiful line. Tricky start into gently overhanging jugs and pinches. Super flowy, hero jugs, and an ever imposing pump clock
|
|
●
The Offering
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Simple jug haul with a burly finish. Nice exposure and fun traversing. 5.easy except maybe the last move
|
|
●
Little Viper
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2024 · TR. Possibly come back and lead this. Second bold is a tad hairy, but otherwise it’s nice. After the roof there’s a sinker but tricky 2-finger slot on the right
|
|
●
Hey There, Fancy Pants
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2024 · TR. Didn’t make it to the top :( got shut down at the crux
|
|
●
The Bee's Business
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Decent climb
|
|
●
Trundling Kentucky
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
458
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2024 · TR. Pretty tricky! The holds aren’t gimmes and the top has a puzzling section
|
|
●
Sweet Jane
|
Red River Gorge
> Muir Valley
> Bruise Brothers Wall
|
|
517
|
|
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Sport
|
|
Nov 11, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. Enjoyable; soft, probably the best of the 3 eights here
|
|
●
Harvard
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a2. The Uberfall - right
|
|
118
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad
|
|
Nov 3, 2024 · Follow. Followed Amy. The chimney was fun but not climbed like a chimney. The top off the flake was confusing and strenuous, then the corner finish was also strenuous with bad feet. I thought this was more like 5.6
|
|
●
Apoplexy
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Nov 3, 2024 · Follow. Amy lead. She got a red ballnut on the left side of the flake and a 0.4 cam on the right side about 5-10’ up from the flake. Makes it seem like you might not deck if the flake blows. Amy’s boss happened to walk by, by coincidence, and watched her lead it.
|
|
●
Strictly From Nowhere
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> d. Strictly - The Cei…
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Nov 3, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Oscar to Strictly link-up! Climbing was good and pretty easy. Crux gear: Got a 0.75/1 a bit below the roof, then a 0.5 just below, then 0.2 and 0.3 in an under-side crack mid-crux. Downclimbing after placing gear paid off for getting in a bit of a rest before firing the crux. Save a #2 for after the crux, although I think many pieces can protect the second
|
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