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Matt Wetmore > Comments
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Mar 26, 2024
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What's the start for this? Starting with left hand on the undercling and right on the low crimp feels V2 (w…
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Nov 23, 2023
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Last two pitches are fantastic. We also broke p2 into two pitches as others have recommended and it worked…
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Oct 10, 2023
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As of May 2023, the Gunks Apps guidebook says the original V9 off-routes the left wall, and says if you use…
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Apr 3, 2023
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There were no parking signs everywhere north of the bridge, and multiple signs about no trespassing everywh…
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Mar 19, 2023
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The app notes "Do not top out due to poison ivy hazard" but I haven't been up there so can't speak to that.…
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Oct 24, 2022
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Damn this sucks to see!
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Oct 10, 2022
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Excellent route for leaders new to the grade. Bomber protection the entire way, and the fall at the crux is…
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Jun 13, 2022
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The left traverse is definitely the easier one, I don't think that Gunks App is wrong here. V1 or V2 is fit…
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Jun 10, 2022
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To avoid the rope pushing your cams back when top roping, put draws on your cams in the crack, and at the t…
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Jun 8, 2022
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Definitely worth doing if you are climbing Circus Roof. Burly little finger crack - I actually felt like th…
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Apr 17, 2022
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Great problem marred by the rock at the base.
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Oct 7, 2021
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A lot of the problems in this zone feel soft, might be a morpho thing.
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Oct 6, 2021
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Mega contrived, V2 or V3 if you only use the left crimp and way harder if you are forced to use them both.
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Oct 1, 2021
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Excellent problem, worth every star.
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Sep 24, 2021
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Yeah I've seen someone nearly deck back in 2019 because they pulled off a handhold and the bolts down low a…
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Aug 20, 2021
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Out there with no service, I couldnt tell if it was a sit start or stand start. Now that I have service see…
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Jul 8, 2021
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Very sustained. Great route, doesn't let up.
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May 27, 2021
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A great variation is to compress up the blunt nose, the flake you use for the main problem is off. Feels V3.
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May 18, 2021
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The old anchor at the top of P1 seems to be gone, but some kind soul put in a fixed anchor of 3 cams and on…
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May 17, 2021
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Has anyone done this recently? I'm curious about its current condition.
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May 2, 2021
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You can get a sneaky blue totem at the base of the initial crack.
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Apr 26, 2021
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Little heady at times, much more delicate than Wegetables. I thought this was a fun lead and left me more s…
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Apr 26, 2021
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Space Invaders Direct is in Gunks App as 11a. Seems like everyone else here thinks 10+ is more accurate, an…
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Apr 26, 2021
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Lots of good climbing. I really enjoyed the 10- direct variation, I thought it was one of the better 10- cr…
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Apr 20, 2021
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Cool route. Based on the description I thought it would be pretty casual after the first low crux, but the…
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Mar 29, 2021
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Lead this if it's in your wheelhouse, after the first 15 feet its very well protected and a lot of fun.
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Mar 29, 2021
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So aesthetic. Excellent clean line up one of the proudest buttresses in the Gunks. Small cams and lots of r…
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Mar 29, 2021
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Fun, pumpy jamming. Crack ranges from green to yellow C4s, and there are plenty of footholds. As of spring…
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Mar 26, 2021
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Seems like there are two primary ways of doing this one, you can go up the fin itself via compression, like…
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Mar 11, 2021
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Holds on the left side of the blunt arete are off; if you use them it's a much easier (and worse imo) probl…
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Mar 9, 2021
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Anyone know the details on the bolted drytooling route ~40m to the right of Purgatory? Felt like M6 or M7.
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Feb 26, 2021
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This is in the guidebook as "Far Left Flow WI3". Lower Kitchen Pillar doesn't appear to have been in at the…
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Dec 10, 2020
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Best V1 in the Gunks by a mile. Hard not to do a lap on it every time I walk by it.
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Dec 10, 2020
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Very fun, with the right beta the crux feels pretty secure despite the height. Great position. This problem…
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Oct 3, 2020
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Oops has it all: an obvious line from the ground, sequency moves, and a number of cruxes over good gear. Th…
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Sep 17, 2020
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This route is a real treat if you enjoy chimneys and other wide weirdness. The first pitch chimney is secur…
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