Frank Black > Comments
Feb 21, 2024
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This looks to be a lower/alternate start to Second Coming. Traditional start would be just right of the bar…
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Jul 12, 2023
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In a really good year some smaller, often ephemeral lines can form, but most climbers will be better served…
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Mar 3, 2023
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There's record of bouldering in Saxon Woods as far back as the sixties - and even at that time, evidence su…
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Oct 14, 2022
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I did, but pretty sure I'm not the first to lead this one. A friend of mine might have been the first to l…
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Oct 14, 2022
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3.5” cam helpful.
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Oct 14, 2022
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Protects reasonably with small and micro gear.
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Sep 9, 2022
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I have a strong suspicion that kenr accidentally transposed the grades of this climb (Sure Bet, which he ra…
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Sep 9, 2022
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This and the arete just to the left are probably the best lines on this wall. Some great dihedral moves he…
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Sep 9, 2022
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Maybe slightly contrived, but staying off the big, flat holds on the right and climbing the arete as direct…
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Sep 7, 2022
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@Tyler Fisher The old print guidebook has 9 easy problems.
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Aug 2, 2022
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A new trail from the saltbox parking area was completed in June 2022, an updated map is available at the TV…
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Jul 11, 2022
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@Dennis K It's called Ramparts - some fun face climbing in that middle section if I remember correctly.
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Jun 10, 2022
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There's a traversing boulder problem that crosses the bottom of the Enclosure (Valhalla Traverse/V3) that c…
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Jun 8, 2022
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@Jonas Telson I'm not a local but I climb in the Catskills fairly often, I would vote no on Roundup. I hav…
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Feb 21, 2022
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I believe this is Frozen Apples. Gold Leader is the yellowish flow another 50 feet or so to the left.
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Jan 8, 2022
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I'm a transplant myself. The most helpful local knowledge I can think of: ticks are everywhere. Look into…
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Jan 7, 2022
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Love the stoke, guys - but I'm reminded of something I think was said by Mike Schneider or one of the old W…
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Oct 29, 2021
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Fun, but as mentioned, there is a ton of rotten rock on this route. Use caution.
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Sep 27, 2021
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Such a fun climb, the best of the 'ability' trilogy, not to be missed.
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Sep 27, 2021
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The placements before the roof did not feel confidence-inspiring. If I led this again I'd start on Roofy D…
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Sep 12, 2021
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Bottom half works as a chimney as well, probably the most awkward but also easiest way up to the horn.
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Jun 25, 2021
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I added this route as 5.8+ because that was the way the FA graded it, but personally I’d call it 5.9+ based…
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Jun 18, 2021
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The #4, #5, and #6 Camalots that never make it out of your pack? That’s your whole rack for this climb.
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Jun 14, 2021
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Well-protected crux, solid placements throughout - a fun, G-rated climb.
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Jun 11, 2021
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Took me a while to find the gear at the bottom of the corner, but it’s there…
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May 20, 2021
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There's a really fun trad line here - forget moving left halfway up and stemming, just follow the crack up…
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Apr 6, 2021
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Black Vultures currently nesting here (Spring 2021) - please consider staying off this route until August.
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Apr 6, 2021
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Black Vultures currently nesting here (Spring 2021) - please consider staying off this route until August.
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Apr 6, 2021
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Black Vultures currently nesting here (Spring 2021) - please consider staying off this route until August.
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Mar 24, 2021
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Re:Chris Karcz/Barry Fuller I've always climbed this left of the flakes, per the guidebook "up to an 8 ft…
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Oct 1, 2020
Powerlinez
> k. Tower Wall area
> 6. The Tower Wall
> Back to the Wall (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13)
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I believe this is Any Which Way But Down - or at least what's described as 'Variation 1' of that route. Tr…
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Sep 14, 2019
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The first pitch is terribly short but as a whole it's a fun route. Mind the rope drag. The topo as curren…
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Sep 5, 2019
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Couldn't find anything besides a slung tree in the first twenty feet, but the climbing is pretty easy, abov…
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Sep 4, 2019
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Couldn't find any confidence-inspiring placements after the start, had to downclimb, may not go on gear.
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Aug 31, 2019
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Goes on gear, bring small finger-sized cams.
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Aug 31, 2019
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G-rated if you bring a #6 to bump up the first twenty feet.
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