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Feb 21, 2024
This looks to be a lower/alternate start to Second Coming. Traditional start would be just right of the bar… View Comment
Jul 12, 2023
In a really good year some smaller, often ephemeral lines can form, but most climbers will be better served… View Comment
Mar 3, 2023
There's record of bouldering in Saxon Woods as far back as the sixties - and even at that time, evidence su… View Comment
Oct 14, 2022
I did, but pretty sure I'm not the first to lead this one. A friend of mine might have been the first to l… View Comment
Oct 14, 2022
3.5” cam helpful. View Comment
Oct 14, 2022
Protects reasonably with small and micro gear. View Comment
Sep 9, 2022
I have a strong suspicion that kenr accidentally transposed the grades of this climb (Sure Bet, which he ra… View Comment
Sep 9, 2022
This and the arete just to the left are probably the best lines on this wall. Some great dihedral moves he… View Comment
Sep 9, 2022
Maybe slightly contrived, but staying off the big, flat holds on the right and climbing the arete as direct… View Comment
Sep 7, 2022
@Tyler Fisher The old print guidebook has 9 easy problems. View Comment
Aug 2, 2022
A new trail from the saltbox parking area was completed in June 2022, an updated map is available at the TV… View Comment
Jul 11, 2022
@Dennis K It's called Ramparts - some fun face climbing in that middle section if I remember correctly. View Comment
Jun 10, 2022
There's a traversing boulder problem that crosses the bottom of the Enclosure (Valhalla Traverse/V3) that c… View Comment
Jun 8, 2022
@Jonas Telson I'm not a local but I climb in the Catskills fairly often, I would vote no on Roundup. I hav… View Comment
Feb 21, 2022
I believe this is Frozen Apples. Gold Leader is the yellowish flow another 50 feet or so to the left. View Comment
Jan 8, 2022
I'm a transplant myself. The most helpful local knowledge I can think of: ticks are everywhere. Look into… View Comment
Jan 7, 2022
Love the stoke, guys - but I'm reminded of something I think was said by Mike Schneider or one of the old W… View Comment
Oct 29, 2021
Fun, but as mentioned, there is a ton of rotten rock on this route. Use caution. View Comment
Sep 27, 2021
Such a fun climb, the best of the 'ability' trilogy, not to be missed. View Comment
Sep 27, 2021
The placements before the roof did not feel confidence-inspiring. If I led this again I'd start on Roofy D… View Comment
Sep 12, 2021
Bottom half works as a chimney as well, probably the most awkward but also easiest way up to the horn. View Comment
Jun 25, 2021
I added this route as 5.8+ because that was the way the FA graded it, but personally I’d call it 5.9+ based… View Comment
Jun 18, 2021
The #4, #5, and #6 Camalots that never make it out of your pack? That’s your whole rack for this climb. View Comment
Jun 14, 2021
Well-protected crux, solid placements throughout - a fun, G-rated climb. View Comment
Jun 11, 2021
Took me a while to find the gear at the bottom of the corner, but it’s there… View Comment
May 20, 2021
There's a really fun trad line here - forget moving left halfway up and stemming, just follow the crack up… View Comment
Apr 6, 2021
Black Vultures currently nesting here (Spring 2021) - please consider staying off this route until August. View Comment
Apr 6, 2021
Black Vultures currently nesting here (Spring 2021) - please consider staying off this route until August. View Comment
Apr 6, 2021
Black Vultures currently nesting here (Spring 2021) - please consider staying off this route until August. View Comment
Mar 24, 2021
Re:Chris Karcz/Barry Fuller I've always climbed this left of the flakes, per the guidebook "up to an 8 ft… View Comment
Oct 1, 2020
I believe this is Any Which Way But Down - or at least what's described as 'Variation 1' of that route. Tr… View Comment
Sep 14, 2019
The first pitch is terribly short but as a whole it's a fun route. Mind the rope drag. The topo as curren… View Comment
Sep 5, 2019
Couldn't find anything besides a slung tree in the first twenty feet, but the climbing is pretty easy, abov… View Comment
Sep 4, 2019
Couldn't find any confidence-inspiring placements after the start, had to downclimb, may not go on gear. View Comment
Aug 31, 2019
Goes on gear, bring small finger-sized cams. View Comment
Aug 31, 2019
G-rated if you bring a #6 to bump up the first twenty feet. View Comment
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