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D S

Boulder, CO
93 years old · NotSaying
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Member Since
Apr 22, 2012
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
26 Points
Point Rank: #20,629 DetailsDrop down
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Ticks View All 323

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 23
● Intimidator
Dec 28, 2024 · TR. Ran couple of laps on it. At least as much fun as Doug's, and a _whole_ lot harder - mid to high 11. With the ground erosion this is a campus start which adds a bit to the difficulty. Right hand side-pull/pinch is not high friction at all and makes for insecure move to the horizontal seam under the roof. Ended up just committing to a dyno. Crux is getting established on headwall. The start of the route is just funky but not all that hard. https://youtu.be/oomiXYCWUDg
TR
Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
● Slapstick Routine aka Hollywood
Nov 9, 2024 · TR. Definitely not a 5.11. There is not much difference between it and Ragged. This is either hard 12a, or soft 12b. I'll check out the other 12s in the park and will adjust if needed - for now 12a/b. It's surprisingly burly (and fun!). The original start holds are now too high due to ground erosion. Need to start it from the juggy loaf pinch of Walk On By, and step in from the rocks on the side. Adds one more huck-y move. Consistently gymnastic moves, and the headwall is no gimme if one stays on the line w/o straying onto the arete. (Kind of a pain to set up a top rope on it due to a bush in the way)
TR
Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 13
● Ragged Edge
Nov 2, 2024 · TR. Wish I didn't waste so much time trying to make the heel beta work with the mega swing. Tried going static with left hand first in iso and then sent on next go. Feels like a spot of 5.10 intro, V4 crux (similar to Walk on By), 5.11- exit = 12b-ish. https://youtu.be/1cHxaROG-wQ
TR
Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope
V6 7A
 4
● Homeostasis
Mar 24, 2024 · Send. Another great crimp line. Easier than Wheeties, about as challenging as Trick Direct, although to me it felt easier. One deep right hand crimp lock off and done. On Trick Direct getting the lock-off and the crimp still leaves another move off a horrible half pad crimp to finish.
Boulder
Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Bouldering
V6-7 7A+
 7
● Wheeties
Mar 24, 2024 · Send. Decently condition dependent. Really great straight-up thin cimp line. Felt about V5/6. A benchmark V5 or a soft V6. Easier than Power Glide at Stoney. About a grade up from the left variation.
Boulder
Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Bouldering
V5 6C
 2
● Wheeties Left
Mar 13, 2024 · Send. A bit of a one move wonder. Agree with Steve. If you you boulder harder than this then it's going to feel easy, if this is at your limit it's gonna feel sandbagged. It felt heaps easier than The Trick Direct at V5. Better crimp to lock off on, the hole is closer, and the hole is a finger bucket not a tiny two finger half pad affair. Felt closer to V4 personally. Movement comparable to MoR at Stoney but about a grade or so easier.
Boulder
Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Bouldering
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Intimidator Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope
 23
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Dec 28, 2024 · TR. Ran couple of laps on it. At least as much fun as Doug's, and a _whole_ lot harder - mid to high 11. With the ground erosion this is a campus start which adds a bit to the difficulty. Right hand side-pull/pinch is not high friction at all and makes for insecure move to the horizontal seam under the roof. Ended up just committing to a dyno. Crux is getting established on headwall. The start of the route is just funky but not all that hard. https://youtu.be/oomiXYCWUDg
● Slapstick Routine aka Holly… Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a TR
Nov 9, 2024 · TR. Definitely not a 5.11. There is not much difference between it and Ragged. This is either hard 12a, or soft 12b. I'll check out the other 12s in the park and will adjust if needed - for now 12a/b. It's surprisingly burly (and fun!). The original start holds are now too high due to ground erosion. Need to start it from the juggy loaf pinch of Walk On By, and step in from the rocks on the side. Adds one more huck-y move. Consistently gymnastic moves, and the headwall is no gimme if one stays on the line w/o straying onto the arete. (Kind of a pain to set up a top rope on it due to a bush in the way)
● Ragged Edge Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Top Rope
 13
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
Nov 2, 2024 · TR. Wish I didn't waste so much time trying to make the heel beta work with the mega swing. Tried going static with left hand first in iso and then sent on next go. Feels like a spot of 5.10 intro, V4 crux (similar to Walk on By), 5.11- exit = 12b-ish. https://youtu.be/1cHxaROG-wQ
● Homeostasis Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Bouldering
 4
V6 7A Boulder
Mar 24, 2024 · Send. Another great crimp line. Easier than Wheeties, about as challenging as Trick Direct, although to me it felt easier. One deep right hand crimp lock off and done. On Trick Direct getting the lock-off and the crimp still leaves another move off a horrible half pad crimp to finish.
● Wheeties Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Bouldering
 7
V6-7 7A+ Boulder
Mar 24, 2024 · Send. Decently condition dependent. Really great straight-up thin cimp line. Felt about V5/6. A benchmark V5 or a soft V6. Easier than Power Glide at Stoney. About a grade up from the left variation.
● Wheeties Left Lower Peninsula > Grand Ledge (ak… > Bouldering
 2
V5 6C Boulder
Mar 13, 2024 · Send. A bit of a one move wonder. Agree with Steve. If you you boulder harder than this then it's going to feel easy, if this is at your limit it's gonna feel sandbagged. It felt heaps easier than The Trick Direct at V5. Better crimp to lock off on, the hole is closer, and the hole is a finger bucket not a tiny two finger half pad affair. Felt closer to V4 personally. Movement comparable to MoR at Stoney but about a grade or so easier.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 3 3 3
Last Year 19 13 7
5 Years 25 19 13
All Time 559 323 142

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