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5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 29
Iron Pony
Apr 6, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. W Adam and motley crew of old people. Probably shoulda sent like two weeks earlier, but whatchagonnado? Really fun, cryptic movement with correct foot placements providing the crux. Despite close bolts where it counts, that sharp arete and simply having 30+ meters of rope below you helps to promote a focused experience.
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 7
The Human Factor
Feb 15, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. I hate ballnuts. Hate them. About as real in terms of protection as a slung leprechaun. Also this is a really fun climb.
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
 123
Prodigal Sun
Nov 1, 2024 · Lead. First solo aid route. Didn't bring a hook and ended up top-stepping the tip of a nut tool "hooked" in an empty bolt hole. 0/10 would not recommend. Much systems learning. Totally trashed after fix & fire. Walked out in the dark. Fun!
Aid 9 pitches
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Nobody's Home
Sep 22, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. From Englishman's. After turning the lip, there are two versions of the finish, both excellent -- one standing up onto the left-leaning rail, which is maybe slightly easier but also more insecure and farther above the gear. And one where you hand-traverse left out this rail, which is maybe better for strong people, more secure and closer to the gear. I stood up and walked the plank. After a minor wobble during which I promised my firstborn to the devil, all went well.
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 28
Criller
Jun 9, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint.
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 86
Sequential
Apr 9, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Great gear, safe and fairly little fuss.
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 3
Freak Line
Mar 17, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. First two lead burns were also *coincidentally* the first two times I've fallen on a pecker. Very nearly made it three.
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 195
Iron Horse
Jan 27, 2024 · 1 pitch. Lead / Redpoint. The hard part on the first pitch felt easy. Then I continued into the upper pitch of Pony Express that'd I done a bunch before, somehow blew the move and with rope stretch landed in the tree resulting in profanity, exsanguination, nose surgery and many bruised bits.
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 234
Pony Express
Jan 7, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. The pop to the jug still feels hard.
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 46
Back in Black
Nov 7, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Fun movement and while others found it easy, I fell at the crux twice before sending. There's probably an easier way.
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
 5
Stingay
Jun 17, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Never woulda done this one without Adam spraying it down. I've always had this on the list. Tried it last week on toprope and fell a bunch before 50/50 sending on TR. Today, all felt great until the final move when falling backwards off the top mantel (the move you don't want to fall on), before not falling. Good times.
Trad
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
 61
Atlas Shrugged
Jun 10, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. There are about 5 ways to do the (important) move before the first bolt, all of which feel about 10a, but some of which feel more secure than others. It was worth picking a favorite before leading.
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 33
Yellow Christ
Apr 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Thought I would just be supporting Molly on this but got re-psyched and re-sent. It's basically a highball V4 into a stack of bomber gear and a good rest, then a 15 foot V4 runout to the anchor. I think even falling from the last move you wouldn't hit the ground, but it'd be fun to throw a bag off the top to check sometime.
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 2
Unbroken Prophet
Feb 18, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Not as perfectly safe as I kind of hoped.
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 835
Levitation 29
Feb 3, 2023 · Follow. Funny, I've never previously ticked something I haven't led. But when we rocked up to the base after struggling up the very water-choked drainage and I said to my 16yo that I would lead or follow anything...after which he led the whole damn climb and left me to wallow in the ignominy of following...I'm gonna call it sent on this one. Because, you know, I *coulda* done it. Only, I left the honor for the offspring. Not that I was scared and tired. Seriously. It was the only honorable thing to do. I didn't fall following tho. So I got that going for me.
Trad 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 694
Fine Jade
Oct 21, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. Fun and safe. Other than the horrifically icy approach that was deemed "unpassable" by a party ahead. With Jim.
Trad 5 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 145
Parallels
Oct 11, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. Feels very dialed now...though will prob forget everything in a year.
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
 100
Foxtrot
Oct 11, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. This finally succumb to completely out-of-the-box weak person beta and choosing not to waste strength placing the piece by the horn at the crux. This awesome beta also resulted in a 25-foot fall on this 30-foot route, requiring a nice catch by Pat. Sheesh.
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 55
Silver Raven
Sep 3, 2022 · Lead. Worked out the gear prior to lead...then struggled to place the piece after the crux pseudo-runout and suffered minor mid-route crisis before successfully slotting piece and carrying on with far less drama to the top.
Trad
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1
 34
West Face (Aid)
Jun 6, 2022 · Lead. Aided everything in threatening weather with the girl child who, without jumars, batman-followed the entire route. Fun and easy.
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 115
Pansee Sauvage
Apr 26, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. Very happy to have the moves sussed to the first bolt. Breakdown: 1) 10- soloing to the first bolt; 2) 3 bolts with very safe 11- moves at each bolt; 3) 10- soloing to the anchors.
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Mind Over Matter
Feb 28, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. After rehearsal. Fun and safe. Almost zero groundfall potential.
Trad, TR
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
 87
The Evictor
Jan 29, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. Took a couple burns to finally send this thing. Like about 2,756 or so. I now have the ultimate microbeta that unlocks this route even for the weak and timid.
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 25
Pocket Hercules
Sep 21, 2021 · Lead / Flash.
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 975
Kor-Ingalls Route
Jan 2, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. W Leif and Kess in 23 degree temps! Psych was high despite sketchy snow on the 4th class steps getting to the base. Shenanigans.
Trad 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 56
Downpressor Man
Nov 2, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
 13
Dangerous Acquaintances
Oct 20, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. Wow, this got exciting. Thanks to folks who carried up pads for the start and provided much needed psych for the finish.
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 502
The Naked Edge
Oct 17, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. Finally led all pitches free in one push linking 1-2 & 4-5 (usually swing leads and/or fall and/or don't link...). W Adam. About 2:15 BTB, but not really timed.
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 77
Idiot Wind
Oct 11, 2020 · Lead / Onsight.
Trad 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 25
Pocket Hercules
Sep 19, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 52
Neurosurgeon
Sep 19, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. After forgetting the crux piece in a pile on the ground, I found the exit a bit spooky.
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 25
Never a Dull Moment
Sep 1, 2020 · 1 pitch. Lead / Redpoint. From Athletes Feet start w two ropes
Trad 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
 40
Fire and Ice
Aug 31, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 35
Grand Inquisitor
Aug 29, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 74
Arms Bazaar
Aug 22, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 11
Huck Off
Mar 16, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. On Hail Mary attempt before COVID stay-at-home...
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Iron Pony Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part C - Po…
 29
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Apr 6, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. W Adam and motley crew of old people. Probably shoulda sent like two weeks earlier, but whatchagonnado? Really fun, cryptic movement with correct foot placements providing the crux. Despite close bolts where it counts, that sharp arete and simply having 30+ meters of rope below you helps to promote a focused experience.
The Human Factor Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part C - Po…
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Feb 15, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. I hate ballnuts. Hate them. About as real in terms of protection as a slung leprechaun. Also this is a really fun climb.
Prodigal Sun Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Angel's Landing
 123
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 Aid 9 pitches
Nov 1, 2024 · Lead. First solo aid route. Didn't bring a hook and ended up top-stepping the tip of a nut tool "hooked" in an empty bolt hole. 0/10 would not recommend. Much systems learning. Totally trashed after fix & fire. Walked out in the dark. Fun!
Nobody's Home Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock
 19
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Sep 22, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. From Englishman's. After turning the lip, there are two versions of the finish, both excellent -- one standing up onto the left-leaning rail, which is maybe slightly easier but also more insecure and farther above the gear. And one where you hand-traverse left out this rail, which is maybe better for strong people, more secure and closer to the gear. I stood up and walked the plank. After a minor wobble during which I promised my firstborn to the devil, all went well.
Criller Boulder > … > Peanuts Walls > Lower Peanuts
 28
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad
Jun 9, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint.
Sequential Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Kloof Alcove
 86
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Apr 9, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. Great gear, safe and fairly little fuss.
Freak Line Boulder > … > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center…
 3
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Mar 17, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. First two lead burns were also *coincidentally* the first two times I've fallen on a pecker. Very nearly made it three.
Iron Horse Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part C - Po…
 195
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
Jan 27, 2024 · 1 pitch. Lead / Redpoint. The hard part on the first pitch felt easy. Then I continued into the upper pitch of Pony Express that'd I done a bunch before, somehow blew the move and with rope stretch landed in the tree resulting in profanity, exsanguination, nose surgery and many bruised bits.
Pony Express Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part C - Po…
 234
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Jan 7, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint. The pop to the jug still feels hard.
Back in Black Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress
 46
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Nov 7, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Fun movement and while others found it easy, I fell at the crux twice before sending. There's probably an easier way.
Stingay Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad
Jun 17, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Never woulda done this one without Adam spraying it down. I've always had this on the list. Tried it last week on toprope and fell a bunch before 50/50 sending on TR. Today, all felt great until the final move when falling backwards off the top mantel (the move you don't want to fall on), before not falling. Good times.
Atlas Shrugged Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock
 61
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R Trad
Jun 10, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. There are about 5 ways to do the (important) move before the first bolt, all of which feel about 10a, but some of which feel more secure than others. It was worth picking a favorite before leading.
Yellow Christ Boulder > … > Central > Square Rock
 33
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, TR
Apr 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Thought I would just be supporting Molly on this but got re-psyched and re-sent. It's basically a highball V4 into a stack of bomber gear and a good rest, then a 15 foot V4 runout to the anchor. I think even falling from the last move you wouldn't hit the ground, but it'd be fun to throw a bag off the top to check sometime.
Unbroken Prophet Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part C - Po…
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Feb 18, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Not as perfectly safe as I kind of hoped.
Levitation 29 Southern Nevada > … > (12) Oak Creek… > Eagle Wall
 835
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 9 pitches
Feb 3, 2023 · Follow. Funny, I've never previously ticked something I haven't led. But when we rocked up to the base after struggling up the very water-choked drainage and I said to my 16yo that I would lead or follow anything...after which he led the whole damn climb and left me to wallow in the ignominy of following...I'm gonna call it sent on this one. Because, you know, I *coulda* done it. Only, I left the honor for the offspring. Not that I was scared and tired. Seriously. It was the only honorable thing to do. I didn't fall following tho. So I got that going for me.
Fine Jade Southeast Utah > Castle Valley > Rectory
 694
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Oct 21, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. Fun and safe. Other than the horrifically icy approach that was deemed "unpassable" by a party ahead. With Jim.
Parallels Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part D - Xa…
 145
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Oct 11, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. Feels very dialed now...though will prob forget everything in a year.
Foxtrot Boulder > … > W Ridge > W Ridge - part D - Xa…
 100
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad
Oct 11, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. This finally succumb to completely out-of-the-box weak person beta and choosing not to waste strength placing the piece by the horn at the crux. This awesome beta also resulted in a 25-foot fall on this 30-foot route, requiring a nice catch by Pat. Sheesh.
Silver Raven Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Lumpe to…
 55
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Sep 3, 2022 · Lead. Worked out the gear prior to lead...then struggled to place the piece after the crux pseudo-runout and suffered minor mid-route crisis before successfully slotting piece and carrying on with far less drama to the top.
West Face (Aid) Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face
 34
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
Jun 6, 2022 · Lead. Aided everything in threatening weather with the girl child who, without jumars, batman-followed the entire route. Fun and easy.
Pansee Sauvage Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - S Buttress
 115
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, Sport
Apr 26, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. Very happy to have the moves sussed to the first bolt. Breakdown: 1) 10- soloing to the first bolt; 2) 3 bolts with very safe 11- moves at each bolt; 3) 10- soloing to the anchors.
Mind Over Matter Boulder > … > Rincon > Rincon - Center Route…
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
Feb 28, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. After rehearsal. Fun and safe. Almost zero groundfall potential.
The Evictor Boulder > … > Rincon > Rincon - L of Center…
 87
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 Trad
Jan 29, 2022 · Lead / Redpoint. Took a couple burns to finally send this thing. Like about 2,756 or so. I now have the ultimate microbeta that unlocks this route even for the weak and timid.
Pocket Hercules Lyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 25
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Sep 21, 2021 · Lead / Flash.
Kor-Ingalls Route Southeast Utah > Castle Valley > Castleton Tower
 975
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Jan 2, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. W Leif and Kess in 23 degree temps! Psych was high despite sketchy snow on the 4th class steps getting to the base. Shenanigans.
Downpressor Man Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes
 56
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Nov 2, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Dangerous Acquaintances Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X Trad
Oct 20, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. Wow, this got exciting. Thanks to folks who carried up pads for the start and provided much needed psych for the finish.
The Naked Edge Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two
 502
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Oct 17, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. Finally led all pitches free in one push linking 1-2 & 4-5 (usually swing leads and/or fall and/or don't link...). W Adam. About 2:15 BTB, but not really timed.
Idiot Wind Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Sundance Buttress
 77
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Oct 11, 2020 · Lead / Onsight.
Pocket Hercules Lyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 25
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Sep 19, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Neurosurgeon Lyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 52
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Sep 19, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. After forgetting the crux piece in a pile on the ground, I found the exit a bit spooky.
Never a Dull Moment Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock
 25
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Sep 1, 2020 · 1 pitch. Lead / Redpoint. From Athletes Feet start w two ropes
Fire and Ice Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes
 40
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Aug 31, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Grand Inquisitor Boulder > … > Bell Buttress M… > Bell Buttress - Main…
 35
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Aug 29, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Arms Bazaar Boulder > … > Bell Buttress M… > Bell Buttress - Main…
 74
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Aug 22, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint.
Huck Off Boulder > … > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Roof Routes
 11
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Mar 16, 2020 · Lead / Redpoint. On Hail Mary attempt before COVID stay-at-home...
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