Blake Allen Green > Comments
Mar 28, 2015
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Well Matt, it looks like i have a reason to come back to the ol choss pile after all...
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May 17, 2014
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This route was graded 13a in the old guidebook, and I think the reason for the discrepancy is that many peo…
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May 16, 2014
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Ha! Alex you got sandbagged off a classic climb by a chuckwalla. That'll teach you to hone your desert rept…
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Apr 6, 2014
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Chatt steel says "destined to become a popular moderate." This is true as it is one of few routes below 5.9…
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Nov 8, 2013
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Go left out of the hueco and straight up. Make sure you have good gear in/around the hueco, as you go about…
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Oct 14, 2013
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5.11d in the current guidebook. Feels like a fair grade. Hero move on the corner is really good.
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Sep 30, 2013
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Admin, please subdivide the "main wall" into its respective areas so that the site is easier to navigate. O…
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Aug 19, 2013
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2 bolts out near the crux. Neither one is necessary, but the gear is adventurous without. 5.10 climbing wit…
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May 14, 2013
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There are currently a couple of biners on quicklinks on two of the bolts on the route. Clip the climber end…
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Mar 8, 2013
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Replaced tattered slings and heavily grooved biners on those two fixed draws on 3/7/13. Dropped the knife a…
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Mar 8, 2013
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This route actually takes really good gear in the seam on the left. Placing in the crux is tricky, and plac…
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Nov 29, 2012
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Fun route, but no way it's harder than sunshine dihedral, or even the boulder on low Cool Ranch for that ma…
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Nov 26, 2012
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If your fingers fit it just right, then the crux might only be the sustained stacks. The thin section at th…
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Oct 22, 2012
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FA Jeff Frizzell 2004
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Jul 23, 2012
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I think this route is fun and worth doing if you're climbing the grade. The bouldery moves at the crux are…
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Jul 22, 2012
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Protection in order of appearance" 1 or 2 #2 c4 for the first part of Stan's, reach really high in the dihe…
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Jul 15, 2012
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The flake is still up there, and still pretty scary. It's at the first overhung/bulge section. I initially…
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Jul 14, 2012
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The crux of this route is hardly v7. It's v5 at the absolute most. This would definitely be a better route…
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Nov 30, 2011
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Just to second the early comments, I've ripped gear on this route too. All the gear is good, no matter whic…
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Oct 2, 2011
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I want to echo the comments of TK above, there are many, many beginners here that I have frequently seen do…
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Jul 17, 2011
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There were three bolts on the route when I did it. Also, when I was there in May 2011, a large tree at the…
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Jul 17, 2011
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I was at little foxx a bit this weekend. We had a great time even with the short amount of daylight we had!…
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Apr 5, 2011
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The top half of the route goes nicely on gear. Has anyone done the variation staying in the dihedral rather…
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Apr 5, 2011
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The crux is height dependent, but my friend that's 5'0" could get a foot high enough to static the move wit…
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Apr 5, 2011
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Can be done as three long pitches if you manage the gear and rope well. Pitches 2 and 4 are my favorites if…
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Mar 21, 2011
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I don't think it's really pg-13 because if you use the guidebook method, and climb the first 20ish feet of…
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Mar 21, 2011
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I've not gotten the chance yet, but last time I was on it I saw bomber gear placements on the whole route.…
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Feb 10, 2011
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If you want to protect the runout, just bring a small/medium wire and a quick draw and you can place it bet…
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Dec 15, 2010
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Most of the comments on this route indicate the opposing views that this route is either awful or that it i…
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Nov 2, 2010
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TR'ed this route last January and it was pretty stout for someone not used to climbing on J Tree Granite. M…
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Oct 20, 2010
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This route has amazing placement for any type of gear you choose to bring along. The climbing is fun and ea…
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Oct 20, 2010
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This route is fantastic. It has a very bouldery crux pulling the roof, then it calms down and offers amazin…
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Sep 12, 2010
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This route (as of fall 2010) now has permanent chain draws on all but the first bolt. I don't know who hung…
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