James Otey > Forum Messages

Jul 29, 2018 I've climbed in Evolv shoes for the longest time- they are fantastic in that they offer split sizes for people with big differences in their shoe sizes.Bummer is, most other po… View Message

Jun 1, 2017 This is a far cry, but my 12 year old Needle 45 size Tall got destroyed by rockfall last weekend. It was still going strong!I got a new pack, but it's just not the same. If you… View Message

Jun 26, 2016 Eric- I agree! It is possible to use the Grigri left handed. There isn't, however, a modern manufacturer indented system that encompasses that type of use. There are a lot o… View Message

Jun 12, 2016 I did check that thing out prior to writing this review actually. Looks totally sweet! One thing that the Matik excels at is force reduction throughout the system. The Revo app… View Message

Jun 10, 2016 For top-roping use with a 9.8- absolutely. The Matik was primarily designed for skinny ropes however, and I found that the Sterling Velocity 9.8 was on the thick side, and not… View Message

Jun 10, 2016 I've tested the OVO in this configuration with Mammut 7.5mm halfs, and although the ropes do become twisted as in the video, full blocking still occurs. View Message

Jun 7, 2016 Owen- The dimensions of the Ovo accommodates much smaller diameters- I believe CAMP rates them down to 8mm on half ropes. I run 7.6 halfs with my Ovo and it autoblocks 100% rel… View Message

Jun 3, 2016 Out of practical necessity, it seems like gear reviewers don’t get to spend all that much time with a given product before writing a review on it. This is not going to be… View Message

May 5, 2016 A failure to block condition can also take place when the blocking carabiner is clipped to the upper carabiner. Check out this video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlbewChUYUw… View Message

Feb 7, 2016 ALL rubber is slick if it's been sitting on the shelf for a while. This is because the material on the surface is exposed, and oxidizes. This creates a hard/ slick feeling when… View Message

Nov 17, 2015 At the end of the day, climbers should have the training and common sense to be able to properly utilize every single anchor solution listed in this thread. They all work. P… View Message

Mar 23, 2014 More food for thought: From the ITRS: "Prusik-style lengths of 8mm cord were soaked in dirty, gritty water, allowed to dry, and then put through five, 1,000-pound slow pu… View Message

Mar 23, 2014 Failing? Not that I've ever heard of. Reducing the lifespan? Definitely. Take a rope down to the RRG for a weekend without a rope bag and test it out. I've been through a lo… View Message

Mar 20, 2014 Dirt acts as a micro abrasive when impregnated within the structure of the rope fibers. Put it under tension or run it over carabiners under load and it will wear the rope fast… View Message

Feb 6, 2013 It's about 1.5 number grades for me View Message

Jan 13, 2013 Satan on a Halfshell lost a crucial hold back when it was a V8 due to torching. Luckily the V10 problem it created is one of the best in New England, but it's the thought t… View Message

Jan 9, 2013 Muscles get stronger significantly faster than connective tissue- aka tendons. Stay away from pockets and super small crimps like the plague for 6 months. Pay now save late… View Message

Dec 9, 2012 Gotta lay off the lotion bro! Go chop some wood or something. But seriously, I find that people who don't do moves statically/ in control often have their hands grate and… View Message

Oct 17, 2012 This is the best joke ever! Well, I hope it's a joke... View Message

Aug 6, 2012 I have a China Alpha SL Pullover that has better quality than another piece that was made in Canada. Wild things is great too. Their customer service is AMAZING. View Message

Jun 15, 2012 They're awful. Go with Rock and Resole View Message

Apr 27, 2012 I've been belaying the right side up way for many years without problem. I guess this might save people who aren't using it perfectly. When both are used perfectly, a GriGri… View Message

Mar 27, 2012 More pushups, less climbing View Message

Jan 31, 2012 5 things other than climbing gear... Good knife. Good handgun. 45 ACP. A payload of booze. Whiskey and beer. Nothing else. Meat. Man card. View Message

Nov 29, 2011 Damn you just beat me to it.... View Message

Nov 8, 2011 Forget a squeeze check, you started climbing without checking if HE HAD A BELAY DEVICE. Jesus H dude. Darwin award. View Message

Nov 2, 2011 That's really weird. I'm no expert, but I would guess some kind on inflammation impinging on the brachial plexus. View Message

Nov 1, 2011 Agreed. This matter should be taken care of sans police, Wild West style. What a piece of shit that guy is. Glad to see other people flexing their rights to CCW. View Message

Sep 7, 2011 I already emailed just in case it was Lily's haha... not under Urban View Message

Sep 6, 2011 Still haven't been able to send that route without a kneepad... View Message

Aug 1, 2011 They're sized the same. Velcro is more downturned. I'm a 10 street shoe, 38.8 miura (I like my shoes really tight). View Message

Jul 31, 2011 Its pretty much impossible for this to happen with proper belaying technique. You have to have the climber's side of the rope wrapped around the side / underbelly of the device… View Message

Jul 31, 2011 petzl.com/en/outdoor/grigri… View Message

Jul 21, 2011 Bounce test the fuck out of them! Static line and a crash pad... View Message

Jul 12, 2011 That's the first think I thought of as well... View Message

Jun 30, 2011 Epic de-evolution. I'm done with this thread. Thank you to everyone who put forth an opinion. It's in the locals hands now... Well, it always has been :) View Message