mschlocker > Forum Messages

Nov 13, 2014 I'd just be guessing at these routes. I spent most of my time at the Ramona Wall area. It's really a separate area in terms of approach. You could easily spend a few days just… View Message

Jan 20, 2011 Corey Rich Jim Thornburg John Dickey Nathan Welton View Message

Jan 17, 2011 ..."but if you were looking up, watching the climber, you probably could have easily avoided the falling rock" Not so. The largest rock I got hit with broke off when a lead… View Message

May 31, 2010 No takers yet. Do I have to throw in a beer? View Message

May 27, 2010 See what I mean. The same guys telling you not to put in routes are people that in fact have done it themselves. Once you throw it in, you open yourself up to criticism good… View Message

May 26, 2010 Just do it if the route is good. Of course, if you don't think you'll ever lead it or be able to lead it then don't do it. When I wanted to put my first bolted route in I… View Message

May 26, 2010 I think Powers is pretty much the industry leader. Hilti may have slightly higher strength. You can download the data sheets from their websites. That data is a lot more acc… View Message

May 25, 2010 I will be passing through town and have always wanted to climb the Flatirons. Eldorado canyon would be ok too, but second on my list. I'm looking to do one or more long rou… View Message

May 19, 2010 It seems that climbing is not the only thing that gets assigned ratings nobody can agree on. We had an earthquake here yesterday that I thought was solid 5th class when I felt… View Message

Apr 29, 2010 Can you access Mountain Project on an iphone? Can you save web pages to look at later with no internet access? I may be convinced to buy one. View Message

Apr 29, 2010 I have removed a lot of bolts, but no glue-ins. No bolt is easy to replace in its original hole, 5 piece are a pain, 1/4" button heads are a pain in hard rock, and studs are n… View Message

Apr 23, 2010 Metolius is the only way to go. Best compromise between durability, ease of tearing by hand, and stickiness. If you make tape gloves and re-use them it lasts a long time. Or… View Message

Apr 20, 2010 Definitely aid routes count. I'm not sure what onsight means though in terms of an aid route. Nobody seems to care if you blow a few pieces on the way, in fact it tends to ga… View Message

Apr 19, 2010 What about climbs that are FA TR? There are plenty of TR routes that never get bolted and otherwise have no protection. You just have to note the style of the FA, in my opini… View Message

Apr 19, 2010 "an FA would be defined by the starting and ending points only". So, if I start at the base of a nice crack, walk around the back of the formation, hike up and sit at the to… View Message

Mar 5, 2010 Thanks guys, I want to do Sedona Scenic Cruise, which I think is new. I'll check out those guidebooks too since I need to get oriented to the area. MP.com is the best, I ne… View Message

Mar 4, 2010 What is the best guidebook for the Sedona area? Anything covering other Arizona offerings as well would be a nice feature. Thanks View Message

Jan 25, 2010 My main climbing partner learned on Pins. There was even a day before nuts. In the history of it all nuts had a very short reign despite what the "Back in the Seventies" crow… View Message

Jan 25, 2010 During a conversation with a friend in which I stated "MP.com is the best climbing site period" he stated that it's "Only good if you are looking for the most detailed route in… View Message

Jan 12, 2010 PS geir.com/climbs.html climbaz.com/Backcountry/bac… Great resources! View Message

Jan 11, 2010 Tony. The Sheepshead rocks. I think it is warmer than the other side? Camping there reminds me of The Needles. Chill, no fees, a few cool climbers. We took a civic there in… View Message

Dec 14, 2009 I climb to get better at climbing. Once you get proficient at placing gear it's all just climbing. View Message

Dec 3, 2009 See my dyneema sling testing. This sling was a couple of years old and I had caused some friction issues by doing something stupuid where a weighted rope drug across it. Th… View Message

Oct 23, 2009 Besides filling in a gap, the Grey that I place often adds one more piece in a range of crack that I love to climb. I'd say better a grey and yellow than double yellows. View Message

Jun 19, 2009 I once wore a watch climbing. It was destroyed by the end of the route. BAD IDEA to wear anything nice up a climb, especially on your hands. View Message

Jun 16, 2009 My regular climbing partner is a window cleaner. I'm an aerospace (mechanical) engineer myself. View Message

Apr 26, 2009 Be careful clipping Nalgene loops. I learned early in my backpacking days when I would try to pull a nalgene out of my pack by the loop that they are not meant for abuse but s… View Message

Apr 26, 2009 Truth be told, I have two epic camelbak stories of my own. The problem is the angled valve getting caught on bushes mid-climb and ripped off. Water everywhere! The solution… View Message

Apr 24, 2009 I use a camel bak. I've usually got enough junk hanging off my harness. View Message

Apr 18, 2009 2 things to be careful of. Here in Southern California it is really only a good idea to clean in the winter/early spring. You can easily start a brush fire. Smaller rocks I… View Message

Apr 7, 2009 Just buy the hand drill. They are cheap. Sure, you are at 1/2 hour per bolt, but you save a lot of money. If you install a few anchors and get the bug then you will have a l… View Message

Mar 16, 2009 Just last weekend I was out doing some aid practice. I just bought a Gri-Gri and my partner wanted to try it out. Near the top of the route a hook popped and I went sailing 2… View Message

Mar 10, 2009 It seems typical to me that bolted climbs that are proteted well at the crux but have a section that is easy RELATIVE TO THE CRUX tend to be run out on the easy sections. I ha… View Message

Mar 5, 2009 It's no myth. It happens when your second whines for you to keep them super tight. I used this a lot when I was learning to climb and would drag anybody (mostly against their… View Message

Mar 5, 2009 Thanks for the input. I have found that the redirect for me is hard to pull, kinks the rope, and jerks me into the anchor (I am light) hard when my second falls. Not to menti… View Message

Mar 5, 2009 I enjoy using my ATC guide straight off the anchor but it is a pain to lower somebody and has a bit of friction so it is tiring. Before I bought that I was using the Munter hi… View Message