Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Suggested Page Improvements to Flying with Goldens
History Suggestion
Original submission from Wally Fox:
The Mega Proj
Could I do all the moves, I couldn't. That was in the fall of 2015 and since then I have spent Trout seasons (May 15 - Jan 15) climbing on it. It was my church, once a week rain, snow or heat I was there. Except when my wife was having our children and vacations or climbing trips. It's kinda funny when going to Yosemite Valley and you think to yourself I would probably rather go to Trout. Also, being a Dad and continuing to climb is challenging at times and I am so lucky to have a wife that supports this endeavor. Yesterday, January 4th 2020 I sent and couldn't have felt anymore psyched! I have so many great memories from this route.
The first couple seasons I top roped it just trying to figure out the beta. After figuring out most the beta it's best to give some lead goes - I believe that the learning curve greatly steepens and success becomes more likely this way. My goal for the first lead go was to just get the first piece in - that was it. Who better to belay me than Graham Zimmerman - super positive and ever attentive. I placed two pieces from the starting block and cast off. Did three moves and placed the red c3 no problem, ok, let's keep going! At the base of this route there were countless thoughts before stepping into the uncomfortable. One thought that sticks out is of a picture of my daughter (Marin) and I running together. She's running with her tongue out with the best smile on her face - pure joy, pure fun. That's how I want to climb - like how she was running. Season 3 ended on a cold winter day with Paul Knill. I got thru the first 20 feet on lead, placed the first 4 pieces, clipped the last piece, took and yelled out something... cause it was the first time sending thru that section. This is how the route went, there was always something to celebrate!
Season 4 was pretty awesome, I top roped it clean and high pointed on lead! I also remember taking a massive whip on it with Max Tepfer belaying. Max has a way of bringing out my best climbing. I had been struggling with a gear placement and endurance crux so I planned to skip a piece and run it out to the next gear placement. When I p laced the piece I heard Max say "just climb now", I did, I kept going and got thru the endurance crux - kinda - not really. The beta thru this section is super techy and I blew it, fell what felt like 30 feet, oh shiiiiit! Like all falls it came to an end but not without my foot taping Max's head first. That was close, didn't think I'd fall that far - didn't try that again.
There were also multiple season's that I'd psych myself up by listening to Led Zeplin, whole lotta love and No Quarter. Music is sometimes just the extra little de-stressor to loosen me up and I am happy to take any little advantage I can get.
I stepped up to the route thinking today could be the day but also knew that it could not be - I could fall again, like so many other days on the route. It happened! All the moves from bottom to top! I didn't fall at the foot deadpoint or the endurance crux or the last boulder problem. There's a rest before the last boulder problem and when I got there I took my time. When I first got there I thought there is no way - I'm to tired, to pumped, to gassed. I waited, slowly shook my arms one by one, I changed positions so I could de-pump my calves. My thoughts changed to I've done this many times before, in worse conditions and in weaker shape. The crux of this section was getting my left hand just right - it's a pinky down open hand flare lock. As the years past climbing on this project this hold got easier and easier to use. I nailed it and the ensuing right first finger mono lock. Each move closer to the chains was a celebration, moments like these are why I climb.
On the way home Lizzy and I talked route names and nothing stuck or seemed right. After Lizzy got out and I had a moment to myself, the name popped into my mind. Flying with Goldens - my eyes welled up with tears and I knew I had the route's name. I remember watching the Golden Eagles one day and how effortlessly they soared up into the sky - flying high! That was the feeling I had as I reached the chains.
Protection
It protects really well! While I sent with most all the gear pre-placed I have also climbed it in red-point style many times so you can to. The smallest cam I placed was a double 00 c3 and the largest was a yellow c3 towards the top, two yellows total. Lots of blue and purple Metolius and or red and green C3s. Around 10 blue Metolius/red c3 size and 5 in the purple Metolius/green c3 size. I also used a offset blue yellow.
The Mega Proj
Could I do all the moves, I couldn't. That was in the fall of 2015 and since then I have spent Trout seasons (May 15 - Jan 15) climbing on it. It was my church, once a week rain, snow or heat I was there. Except when my wife was having our children and vacations or climbing trips. It's kinda funny when going to Yosemite Valley and you think to yourself I would probably rather go to Trout. Also, being a Dad and continuing to climb is challenging at times and I am so lucky to have a wife that supports this endeavor. Yesterday, January 4th 2020 I sent and couldn't have felt anymore psyched! I have so many great memories from this route.
The first couple seasons I top roped it just trying to figure out the beta. After figuring out most the beta it's best to give some lead goes - I believe that the learning curve greatly steepens and success becomes more likely this way. My goal for the first lead go was to just get the first piece in - that was it. Who better to belay me than Graham Zimmerman - super positive and ever attentive. I placed two pieces from the starting block and cast off. Did three moves and placed the red c3 no problem, ok, let's keep going! At the base of this route there were countless thoughts before stepping into the uncomfortable. One thought that sticks out is of a picture of my daughter (Marin) and I running together. She's running with her tongue out with the best smile on her face - pure joy, pure fun. That's how I want to climb - like how she was running. Season 3 ended on a cold winter day with Paul Knill. I got thru the first 20 feet on lead, placed the first 4 pieces, clipped the last piece, took and yelled out something... cause it was the first time sending thru that section. This is how the route went, there was always something to celebrate!
Season 4 was pretty awesome, I top roped it clean and high pointed on lead! I also remember taking a massive whip on it with Max Tepfer belaying. Max has a way of bringing out my best climbing. I had been struggling with a gear placement and endurance crux so I planned to skip a piece and run it out to the next gear placement. When I p laced the piece I heard Max say "just climb now", I did, I kept going and got thru the endurance crux - kinda - not really. The beta thru this section is super techy and I blew it, fell what felt like 30 feet, oh shiiiiit! Like all falls it came to an end but not without my foot taping Max's head first. That was close, didn't think I'd fall that far - didn't try that again.
There were also multiple season's that I'd psych myself up by listening to Led Zeplin, whole lotta love and No Quarter. Music is sometimes just the extra little de-stressor to loosen me up and I am happy to take any little advantage I can get.
I stepped up to the route thinking today could be the day but also knew that it could not be - I could fall again, like so many other days on the route. It happened! All the moves from bottom to top! I didn't fall at the foot deadpoint or the endurance crux or the last boulder problem. There's a rest before the last boulder problem and when I got there I took my time. When I first got there I thought there is no way - I'm to tired, to pumped, to gassed. I waited, slowly shook my arms one by one, I changed positions so I could de-pump my calves. My thoughts changed to I've done this many times before, in worse conditions and in weaker shape. The crux of this section was getting my left hand just right - it's a pinky down open hand flare lock. As the years past climbing on this project this hold got easier and easier to use. I nailed it and the ensuing right first finger mono lock. Each move closer to the chains was a celebration, moments like these are why I climb.
On the way home Lizzy and I talked route names and nothing stuck or seemed right. After Lizzy got out and I had a moment to myself, the name popped into my mind. Flying with Goldens - my eyes welled up with tears and I knew I had the route's name. I remember watching the Golden Eagles one day and how effortlessly they soared up into the sky - flying high! That was the feeling I had as I reached the chains.
Protection
It protects really well! While I sent with most all the gear pre-placed I have also climbed it in red-point style many times so you can to. The smallest cam I placed was a double 00 c3 and the largest was a yellow c3 towards the top, two yellows total. Lots of blue and purple Metolius and or red and green C3s. Around 10 blue Metolius/red c3 size and 5 in the purple Metolius/green c3 size. I also used a offset blue yellow.
