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Suggested Page Improvements to Dent du Géant


Bogdan Petre
Jun 13, 2022
The Kuffner Ridge doesn't belong here. It's hours (on foot) away from the dent du geant, and it's not a rock climb. It was originally included in a section with a hodgepodge of snow ice and mixed routes as well as rock routes, despite being under chamonix *rock climbing*, but moving it here made things worse. It belongs here:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/113295621/mont-blanc-du-tacul

This is a classic snow route on Mont Blanc du Tacul in the Comb Maudit cirque. Ideally there would be a Comb Maudit area for routes like this, but there isn't so in the meantime Mont Blanc du Tacul would do since this route does in fact lead to its summit.

Bogdan Petre
Jul 10, 2022
This area has been getting bounced around based on my suggestions for some time. It's still not right though. Kuffner ridge and SW Face Normal Route are in totally different places. The Kuffner is on Mont Blanc du Tacul. The SW Face is on the Dent du Geant. These are different peaks separated by an hour or two of walking depending on how you count it. One place for the Dent du Geant might be
All Locations > International > Europe > France > Northern Alps > Chamonix Mont Blanc > high frontier E by Italy Rock Climbing. It should unequivocally not be a sub area of the Midi-Tacul.

The Kuffner could remain on Mont Blanc du Tacul, since it is a route to it's summit. It could also be in the "high frontier E by Italy Rock Climbing" since the Kuffner Ridge literally follows the "frontier" between italy and france and is also known as the "frontier ridge". However, it would not fit into any sub area of the high frontier that is currently there. It would be fine to keep in the Midi-Tacul though. That area is a mess, and it does in fact top out Mont Blanc du Tacul. Bottom line though is that it should not be grouped with anything on the dent du geant. That would be like putting the regular northwest face of halfdome under an area describing el cap to provide some geographic sense of scale.

Sid Xiao
Aug 16, 2022
Getting There Suggestion

Since this climb is listed in MP as starting from Chamonix, you have three options to get to the dent:

1. Take the aiguille du midi lift up, then walk eastsoutheast across the glacier du geant, going around the gros rognon. The horizontal distance is 5.5km, no idea the vertical. One italian beta says this takes around 5hr one way with skins. 

2. Take the aiguille du midi lift up, then take the Panoramic Montblanc cable car that runs between aiguille du midi and punta helbronner. From helbronner, walk northnortheast (passing the aiguille marbrees to your east) for 2.5km and 600m of elevation gain (around 2.5hrs at a good pace) until you arrive at "the gums" (le gengive).

3. Drive from Chamonix to Courmayeur in Italy via the montblanc tunnel. There, take the Skyway Montebianco lift up to punta helbronner.

Easiest to take the tram up from Courmayeur. Find the feature from the top of the tram and hike towards it. Eventually you'll hit a steeper snow slope with a crevasse to the climber's right. Avoid the crevasse and ascend the slope. At the top follow the ridge up mixed snow and rock scrambling (this is called the gums, or oe gengive). Continue along the ridge passing a large pinnacle (this is the gendarme - go around the east/right side of this feature). From here take the ridge to the base of the Dent.

The crevasse opens up throughout the day (as it gets sun for most of the day), so be aware of this on the way back down the steep snow slope.

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