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Suggested Page Improvements to Thacher State Park
Thacher Park hosts the newest climbing area in the Northeast, and is one of the few sport areas in the region. The area has steep limestone sport climbing on hard smooth faces and bulging overhangs and roofs. The rock varies from a lower layer with horizontal strata to a main upper layer hosting most of the climbs.
At Thacher climbers have their own special use area separate from the Indian Ladder Trail area. When you are in this area you will have to follow rules including no-off route or off-trail travel and no trad climbing as well as signing liability waivers (similar to Peterskill area at the Gunks).
While the area has moderate routes most of the lines are over 5.10 due to the nature of the rock. Unlike many areas here you park at the top and use a crack to enter and exit. The crack takes you to the bottom where a trail system fans out to access routes clustered into sections. The cliff line is continuous so this crack is the only legal entry. Private property butts against the ends of the climbing zone. Climbing is only permitted on the Hailes Cliff South and the Horseshoe North Cliff, it is not permitted anywhere else in the park, even though the park has several miles of cliff line.
60m ropes or longer are recommended. A stick clip is useful because many routes start with a crux overhang.
FYI, all climbing equipment needs to fit through an 8-inch gap. There is a down climb to the main trail which squeezes you between two rock walls. Plan to keep you equipment and water bottles strapped down for the initial decent.
GunksApps smartphone guide: Download the GunksApps from the play store or apple store for free and buy the Thacher guide book license for $14.99 which includes lifetime updates as new routes are developed. Includes GPS coordinate navigation as well as high-res route images and topo. This is currently the only guidebook available.
Thacher Park hosts the newest climbing area in the Northeast and is one of the few sport climbing areas in the region. The area has steep limestone sport climbing on hard smooth faces and bulging overhangs and roofs. The rock varies from a lower layer with horizontal strata to a main upper layer hosting most of the climbs.
At Thacher, climbers have their own special use area separate from the Indian Ladder Trail area. When visiting for the first time, you are required to fill out a waiver and get a FREE digital permit. Fill out the permit and email it to JBThacher@ny.parks.gov.
You must sign both in-to and out of the logbook, located in the kiosk at the top of the crevice EACH time you visit. When you are in this area you'll have to follow additional rules including no-off route or off-trail travel, no trad climbing, no dogs, and to follow all Leave-No-Trace principles.
While the area has moderate routes, most of the lines are over 5.10 due to the nature of the rock. Unlike many areas, you park at the top and access the base of the cliff via the Helmus Crevice. The crack takes you to the bottom where a trail system fans out to access routes clustered into sections. The cliff line is continuous so this crack is the only legal entry. Private property butts against the ends of the climbing zone. Climbing is only permitted in the Hailes Cliff South and the Horseshoe North Cliff areas and only on routes listed in the official guidebook.
60m ropes or longer are recommended. A stick clip is useful as many routes start with a crux overhang.
This is the organization that made climbing happen at Thacher State Park. You can support ongoing efforts to try to get ice climbing legalized and expand sport climbing at the park by donating at https://climbthacher.org/merchandise. The GunksApps guidebook helps support the organization by donating 50% of the guide coast back to the TCC.
To learn more visit the TCC at www.climbthacher.org or email info@climbthacher.org if you have any questions.
Get the guidebook from GunksApps at gunksapps.com/
