Updates to Ten Sleep Canyon

Quickdraws (singles only), chalk, bags, etc available at the Canyon Collections Gift Shop at MSRP.

Climber showers available at Ten Sleep Brewery for $2.

Dirty Sally's seems to be sold out of guidebooks. Both the Brewery and Gift Shop above have copies at $35 a pop.

The information above may be in various comments, but would be useful in the Description section, particularly with the limited connectivity round these parts. Thanks!

Enter the Buttery Sickness Suggestion

Located just East of the town of Ten Sleep, Wyoming (population - less than 300) there are probably more climbers in Ten Sleep canyon on any given day of the Summer than live in this sleepy little Cowboy town. Once a little known backwater, Ten Sleep may now be the premier limestone climbing area in Wyoming.

The area boasts a huge amount of stone and a wide variation in the type of climbing.

There are dozens of mini-crags up and down the canyon offering nearly 1000 routes. Routes range in grade from 5.7 to 5.14. Due to the variety of orientations of walls in the canyon, it is possible to choose great climbing based what time of the day or what time of the year it is.

Leave your trad rack at home, as there are only a handful of not-recommended traditional routes. Bolts are king here and a fistful of 18 quickdraws will get you up even the longest route. A 60 meter rope is generally all you will need for any route in the canyon but always tie a knot in the other end as a safety precaution. Multi-pitch routes are rare but there are a handful of those as well.

Climbers begin to flock to the Canyon beginning Memorial Day weekend and taper off after Labor Day. Although Summer is a great time of the year for camping and climbing, the months before and after the 'season' can be ideal. Chasing the shade in the Summer gives way to chasing the sun any other time of year.

On climbing rest days, bring your fishing pole and buy a license to see if you can catch a meal from the river or either West Tensleep or Meadowlark Lake. There are great opportunities for Mountain Biking and Kayaking also. If you have the time to head into the back Country hike up toward Cloud Peak Wilderness Area for amazing views and fresh mountain air. Take a free tour of the amazing and high tech fish hatchery at Leigh Creek. And please!! Do not bathe or wash your rope at the Splash Pad in the park in the town of Ten Sleep.

The town of Ten Sleep offers several eating establishments and bars but no grocery store. Deer Haven at the top of the Canyon offers meals, private camp sites and has cabins for rent. Head East to Buffalo or West to Worland to stock or restock your supplies.

The most recent edition of the Ten Sleep Canyon climbing guide was picked up by a publisher after years of Aaron releasing yearly self published guides. Bigger, better, more polished but still irreverent and whacky as ever, 'lies and propaganda from ten sleep canyon' can be purchased locally at Dirty Sallys. Of course now you can find it at a variety of climbing shops and on the interweb as well with a minimal amount of searching. Look for a new edition circa 2015.

Local purchases:
* Quickdraws (singles only), chalk, bags, etc available at the Canyon Collections Gift Shop at MSRP.
* Climber showers available at Ten Sleep Brewery for $2.
* Dirty Sally's is sometimes be sold out of guidebooks. Both the Brewery and Gift Shop above have copies at $35 a pop.

* MEADOWLARK LODGE
Owners are super friendly, free tent camping and usually give climbers great deals if you wish to rent a cabin.
The lodge and camping over looks the lake at an elevation around 9,000 ft. which stays nice and cool during the summer camping months. They have good food and also keep the local ten sleep beer on tap. Try the Speed Goat!
5 minute drive to Lake Point parking lot and French Cattle ranch parking lot.
Bring a fishing pole or paddle boards for rest days.

Enter the Buttery Sickness Suggestion

Located just East of the town of Ten Sleep, Wyoming (population - less than 300) there are probably more climbers in Ten Sleep Canyon on any given day of the Summer than live in this sleepy Cowboy town. Once a little known backwater, Ten Sleep is now one of the premier limestone climbing areas in Wyoming.

Ten Sleep Canyon is massive. Depending on the cliff, you may see dozen's of parties, or none. Expect to pull pockets, edges and flakes with kindly spaced bolts throughout the Canyon. Use the Sun/Shade tool to plan your crag visits accordingly. There are many pullouts along the highway. Please park head in so that the most possible cars can fit in one lot.

GUIDEBOOKS:
-TEN SLEEP CANYON GUIDEBOOK (10th EDITION): The legendary Aaron Huey guidebook. Get your hands on a copy and feel the magic.

-Ten Sleep Rock Climbing (Rakkup Digital): Local developer Mike Snyder's guidebook for your phone. Perfect directions, great photos, and interesting history tidbits from one of the Canyon's longtime locals. Check it out!

-Ten Sleep Canyon Climbing : Louie Anderson's 2019 Guidebook.

WHERE TO STAY:
-Dispersed Old Road camping- Many free sites are available...please tread lightly and use provided porta potties! Road opens June 15th annually

-Leigh Creek Campground- USFS campground with a great setting, toilets, water and trash services. Pay campground

-Meadowlark Lodge- Friendly owners, free tent camping, and good deals on cabins. A higher elevation place to stay to avoid the summer heat! Close to the high country crags + food and beer on tap.

-Ten Sleep Brewery- One of Ten Sleep's great new additions. A large camping area can be your home away from home with a beer garden for a backyard.

-Ten Sleep Rock Ranch- The Anderson's plush camping hideaway. A great place to meet travelling climbers and find a partner. $8/night

-Wherever you stay, remember that many people love this Canyon. Please pack out all your trash and waste!

WHERE TO EAT/DRINK:
-Ten Sleep Brewery- Local beer and occasional food trucks!

-Ten Sleep Saloon- Western food and drink. Good burgers and a patio.

-Bighorn Bar- Like it Western? Stop in!

-Dirty Sally's General Store- Groceries, malts, and everything in between. Stop in for everything you forgot.

-Grocery Stores- Plan ahead! Worland or Buffalo are the closest options for larger markets.

Some things to remember:

Please top rope through your own gear
There is currently a moratorium on developing new routes in Ten Sleep Canyon. Please respect the closure.
Leave the Canyon in better shape than you found it!

Enter the Buttery Sickness Suggestion

Located just East of the town of Ten Sleep, Wyoming (population - less than 300) there are probably more climbers in Ten Sleep Canyon on any given day of the Summer than live in this sleepy Cowboy town. Once a little known backwater, Ten Sleep is now one of the premier limestone climbing areas in Wyoming.

Ten Sleep Canyon is massive. Depending on the cliff, you may see dozen's of parties, or none. Expect to pull pockets, edges and flakes with kindly spaced bolts throughout the Canyon. Use the Sun/Shade tool to plan your crag visits accordingly. There are many pullouts along the highway. Please park head in so that the most possible cars can fit in one lot.

GUIDEBOOKS:
-TENSLEEP CLIMBING GUIDEBOOK (11th EDITION): The 2023 update of the legendary Aaron Huey guidebook. Get your hands on a copy and feel the magic.