Statistics for West Face

Oct 15, 2024 · 8 pitches. Lead. We had 40m ropes which made it longer but wasn’t a problem for anchors. Traverse pitch going from chimney/gulley to face was exposed and hard to protect 5.8. Otherwise, upper pitches are gold.

Oct 13, 2024 · Lead. Beautiful autumn outing! I led even pitches, the final pitch (Kiki’s lead) might be the money pitch for the pure pollo pulling fun. On route finding: everything looks the same, I don’t think we climbed any moves harder than 5.6, but I had moments of concern about pulling off holds. Rap’d with 1x60m and the two bolt anchor was by far the scariest exposure.

Sep 30, 2024 · Follow. Lead last pitch to summit. Pitch 2 is more like 5.8 PG13. After that super fun climbing on very textured rock

Sep 23, 2024 · Lead / Flash. Sam and I did this in 4 rope stretching pitches. I led evens. Fun climb, hard to tell when to escape right. I opted for a no hands thin feet but not overhanging traverse right, followed by a juggy roof pull. Slinging plates with slipknots and lots of extended slings is the way to go, found it hard to place a single rack of cams.

Sep 22, 2024 · 4 pitches. Lead. Lead odd pitches with Evan. The exit Evan took was pretty spicy.

Jul 28, 2024 · 6 pitches. Lead.

Jul 21, 2024 · 6 pitches. Lead / Onsight.

Jul 20, 2024 · 6 pitches. Lead.

Jul 20, 2024 · 6 pitches. Lead.

Jun 8, 2024 · Follow.

Oct 5, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Hell of an adventure

Sep 25, 2023 · Lead. Simul in 3 pitches. W/ Benj, Kevin, and Daniel. Crazy long approach, great climb and formation.

Aug 6, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Fred and I led in 4 long pitches (plus a bit of simulclimbing at the end). I led p2 & 4. I never found the exit right on the second pitch and thus the fabled 5.7 move. Maybe it was immediately right after the slot? Nbd though, you can just keep going up and left for a rope length and then go right again over a small roof. Started at 3:30pm on Saturday because we're bad at time management (jk we just had to work) and finished the raps (3 raps + 1 optional to bypass down scramble with 1 70M) at 9pm-ish

Jul 2, 2023 · 5 pitches. Lead / Onsight. with mike dylan sean sean and levi party of 6 lol epic summit

Jul 2, 2023 · 6 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Todd led the first two pitches, I led the rest

Jul 2, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Almost entire approach was suncupped snow and deadfall this year over July 4 weekend. I lead Sean King and Levi up in front while Todd and Dylan swung leads with Sean Casserly in between them behind us. Start was very routefindy and kind of stressful to lead 6 people up haha. First 2 pitches are tricky with the second being very particular without the most confidence inspiring protection. I climbed deep into and then out of the chimney on the first pitch at about 5.7 but had to leave my backpack below. Todd found an easier exit left at 5.6 much closer to the start of the pitch. Pitch 2 we used Bageants beta. I would call it 5.7+/5.8 and would not recommend to a new leader but it was wild and interesting. I followed cracks up and right to a committing move over the first shelf and then used the “White Dongle” to surmount the second shelf. Great landmark haha. I forgot my atc at the first belay so Todd had to bring it up after he lead pitch 2 behind me. Pitches 3-4 were easy and straightforward chickenhead pitches. Pitch 5 I chose to climb the right angling crack that turned out to be a little spicier than expected with slick and less featured face climbing than most of the rest of the route. We all soloed the final easy 5.4 pitch of chicken heads to the summit and then did double rappels down. Rappels and rope pulls went smooth. Successful day with a great group overall! Possibly the most ppl to ever stand on the obelisk in one day. Gotta come back with a single partner sometime and get on some other routes!

Jul 2, 2023 · 5 pitches. Follow.

Oct 16, 2022 · 6 pitches. Lead / Flash. led pitches 1, 3 and 5. two footholds blasted off on 3rd pitch lead when contemplating going up the overhangs. going left around them was the way. one more broke off on 6th pitch but climbing was easy there

Oct 16, 2022 · 6 pitches. Very fun climb. Everything about it is as advertised. The chicken heads are incredible, the scenery and position are beyond beautiful, the summit is an incredible pano of the kings canyon front range and the hanging repel is a fantastic ending. However the draw back are there. The approach is long and very bush wacky past spanish meadow and also to the base of the climb. At the head wall after p1 and 2 we stuck left of the steep headwalls. This ended up being mellow. The chicken heads range in quality make sure you knock on em before commiting. All in all 3.8 out of 4 stars, a true adventure.

Sep 11, 2022 · Lead. Did in 6 pitches, see comment for route beta

Sep 11, 2022 · 6 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Led in 6 - I led 5 pitches including both crux pitches and partner led one of the easier chickenhead pitches (I think p3). Worth the 20 mile round trip hike to get this Beckey classic. Not a beginner route (you will be run out and the route finding is hard). We did find the true route. That is also the crux of the climb (2nd pitch). Airy and spicy just like Beckey serves it up. No one out there and perfect temps. Our small group of alpinists was pretty pleased to follow the true route and top out as Beckey intended!

Sep 3, 2022 · 6 pitches. Lead / Onsight.

Jul 2, 2022 · w/NK

Jul 25, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. incredible route in a stunning setting

Jun 14, 2021 · Lead.

Aug 8, 2020 · Follow.

Aug 8, 2020 · Exhausted. Let’s get the fuck outta here

Aug 8, 2020 · 5 pitches. Follow. Amazing view at the summit. We linked together pitches 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 easily with a 60m rope.

May 30, 2020 · 6 pitches. Lead.

Jul 6, 2019 · 6 pitches. Follow. Endless chickenheads. If this were more accessible, I'm sure it'd be insanely popular. We had it all to ourselves, and it is now one of my favorite multi-pitches.

Jul 6, 2019 · 6 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Magnificent route. The sea of chickenheads is something that I will not soon forget

Oct 13, 2018 · Lead / Flash.

Oct 13, 2018 · Follow. Variation up chute to left of the route with three levels of chockstones. Likely 5.8/5.9 difficulty.

Aug 5, 2018 · 5 pitches. Lead / Onsight. Led with Analiza in five pitches to the top with a 70

Sep 12, 2017 · 2 pitches. Lead. Had to bail mid-pitch 2 because of thunder and lightning!

Sep 11, 2017 · 1 pitch. Follow. Bailed off 2nd pitch due to thunderstorms.

Sep 10, 2017 · 6 pitches.

Jul 8, 2013 · Completed over 4th of July weekend.

Jun 21, 2011 · Good stuff

Sep 11, 1997 · Lead / Onsight.