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Heart of a Maker of Songs
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in Monkey to Monk Cliff
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Smell the Glove S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heart of a Maker of Songs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Eyes of a Painter S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Scorched Egos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stowaway S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zobermansniffer S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Know the Drill S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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5.9d Crack, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Zippy the Vampire Slayer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weight of Sound S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Have a Little Faith S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New Traditionalists S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clearcut Beaver S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beaver Fever S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Fear of the Facial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Full Stainless Skivvies S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trail Blazer S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dawn of Time S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Switch it Up S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Back Around S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Light that never goes out, The S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | D.A. LeBaron |
| Page Views: | 2 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | David LeBaron on Apr 26, 2025 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
A few bolts of more than moderate, almost dihedral type movement, leads to a small bulge for a bouldery cruxy bit, which will get you to the obvious large horizontal cracks. It then shares the last bolts and climbing with the route to the right (Eyes of a Painter) for the rad finish.
Location
first route to the right of Smell the Glove. After a few bolts, shares the rest and finish with the route to the right (Eyes of a Painter). Starts below a shallow, almost dihedral like void area. A short space of face climbing left of a slanted, thin, ramp/rail will gain you the first bolt, and then up into the obvious shallow concave area. Then pulling over a small bulgy area, then move right to the draw above the horizontal cracks that is shared with Eyes of a Painter. Straight up from there.
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