All Locations > International > Asia > Jordan > Wadi Rum > Jebel Um Ejil

Makluba

Name: Makluba
Rating: 4.0

5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Jebel Um Ejil

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Makluba T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Lani Chapko and Sam Boyce March 2025
Page Views:	0 total · 0/month
Shared By:	Sam Boyce on Apr 16, 2025
Admins:	Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing Details

As of May 2022, the entry fee to Wadi Rum was 5JD/person. The alternative to paying the entrance fee is to buy a Jordan Pass. If you get the Jordan Pass before you arrive in Jordan, your US visa fee ($56 US) is waived and the Jordan Pass allows access to places like Petra, Shobak Castle, etc.

At the Wadi Rum entrance complex is a Tourism Police office. If you are climbing at Wadi Rum, you are supposed to register with the police and give them a photocopy of your passport. Bringing a spare photocopy to give them saves some time, as they don't have a photocopier of their own.

Description

This route climbs the minor sub ridge where "Juniper Gulch" resides. It is a well protected and moderate route that offers a great foray into mushroom climbing!

P1 110' 5.6 Climb up well protected mushrooms, meandering left and right to avoid a couple bulges. A short mushroom chimney takes you to a ledge below a roof (with a gargoyle). 1 bolt 1 cam belay.

P2 100' 5.7+ Climb straight up off the belay through a couple roofs (Sandy #3 in pod protects crux). Walk right on a ledge to gain an easy crack. Follow this up to a bolted belay under another roof.

P2v 100' 5.8+ (better protected) Move the belay to the right side of the ledge with anchor on ground... Start up a steep crack (#4 helpful) to good ledges. Work your way up and left on easy terrain to a bolted belay below another roof.

P3 130' 5.6 Traverse to the right side of the ledge, a boulder problem (bolt) takes you to another big ledge. Walk far right to the edge of the roof. Then work back left with some threads. Belay on another, even bigger ledge.

Walk right to the shoulder of the ridge. There will be an obvious low angle groove with a tree in it. This is Juniper Gulch, the descent route. The next pitch climbs the mushroomed face to the left of this groove.

P4 150' 5.5 Climb the easy low angle face to a nice ledge. Belay on a good thread.

P5 100' 5.7 Scramble up to the right. Make a leftward traverse when possible. A short steep black wall guards the next ledge. Optional belay below the black wall to protect leader better.

P6 100' 5.6 Ramble up the main corner. Then climb mushrooms trending up and right to a large ledge. Belay on flakes to the left.

Move belay around the corner left to the e side of the ridge.

P7 80' 5.5 Climb cracks and mushrooms to the summit of the ridge.

Descent: There is a rappel anchor on the climbers right side of the summit. Take this rappel, then rap and down Juniper Gulch.

Location

The route starts just off the main Rakabat Canyon route. Follow Rakabat, past the steep slab scramble you will be in a wildly featured narrow canyon, follow this until the Rakabat route turns hard west. The route starts here.