Muad'Dib

This route climbs the protruding east facing spur on Hammad's Ridge. It tops out right near the top of that feature. The route is well protected and follows some wild and steep features. The first two pitches are a bit dirty and lackluster, but the climbing above there is superb.

P1 100' 5.8 Start below a right facing "ear" flake. Climb that flake, then continue rambling up ledges to another, short, right facing finger crack. Gear belay in this crack (thin hands to fingers). Possible to link into next pitch.

P2 100' 5.9 Climb the crack, using the face, to more ledges. End at a good ledge with a bolt to belay. (Bolt plus .75/1. Placement is high in a hidden pocket)

P3 85' 5.8 Climb the corner above to a thread. Then make an exposed but super easy traverse to the left. #3 placement in the middle of the traverse to protect follower. Belay at a single bolt (Bolt and high #1 placement to belay)

P4 50' 5.10a Climb straight up off the belay, utilizing the #1 crack. Then work up and left, past a bolt and through tufas to gain an easy crack system. Follow this up to a ledge with anothr single bolt belay. (Bolt and .2/.3) Possible to link into the next pitch with bad rope drag

P5 75' 5.10a Ramble up easy terrain to a bolt. A couple awkward mantles gets you to a couple threads. Then traverse right through a super sandy scoop (bolt, easy A0) to a great ledge. Belay at two bolts at the right side of the ledge below a corner.

P6 170' 5.8 Climb the nice corner to its top (possible belay on ledge), then continue up easy slab (5.0) past a bolt to gain a massive ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge with a bolt and thread.

Scramble up to your left, there are multiple sections of 4th class and one exposed 5.0 traverse that some may choose to belay. Continue up to the highest and leftmost point in a hanging bowl. The next pitch starts with an easy slab.

P7 100' 5.10a Climb easy slab to a high first bolt. Then climb steep tufas to a sloping ledge to belay

P8 80' 5.10b A wild pitch of steep tufa climbing. Crux comes low off the belay. 

P9 60' 5.10a More steep tufa climbing. When level with the third bolt make a wild and exposed feeling traverse to the right (5.8), then a couple slab moves take you to another great belay ledge. 

P10 100' 5.9 Start up easy slab to your left. At a thread. Make an awkward mantle. Above the next ledge, traverse right on a techy slab (crux). Then ramble up easy terrain to a bolted belay in an alcove 

Move the belay up and left around the corner. Belay when the wall steepens again, or solo all the way to the Hammad's Ridge top out.

P11 100' 5.0 Easy rambling takes you to the top out of Hammad's Ridge. (Easy solo)

Descent: Descent via the standard Hammad's rappels. 

Approach via the standard East Dome approach. Traverse left past the Great Siq Route almost to the Crest of the spur. The route starts just below a varnished "ear".