Type: Trad, 1350 ft (409 m), 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Sam Boyce and Lani Chapko March 2025
Page Views: 0 total · 0/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Apr 16, 2025
Admins: Gunkswest

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Description Suggest change

Shai-Hulud takes a proud central line up the middle of the wall to the left of Firestone. The route is sustained and houses mostly excellent rock. The route is largely bolt protected though has a few short sections that require trad gear. It was bolted on lead from stances. 

P1 90' 5.9 Start up an awkward face by a right facing OW. Then work left to an easy crack. Follow this to a good ledge to belay. 

P2 60' 5.7 walk right on the left. Climb a featured crack to a bolt. Then walk back left to a belay at another good ledge. 

P3 80' 5.9 Mantle off the belay to easy terrain. A short bit of steeper climbing takes you to another ledge to belay. 

P4 100' 5.9 Climb the water groove to the right, working right on a slab y face. Following a few bolts to an ok stance to belay. Or easily link into the next pitch.

P5 5.9 100' Continue up the face to a crux right below the belay ledge. 

Walk left, then scramble a few hundred feet up slabs to the base of "The Hourglass"

P6 110' 5.10a Ramble up easy slabs to where the hourglass pinches. A short bit of quality face takes you to a poor stance to belay.

P7  90' 5.10c Walk left on the ledge, then climb a steep face up to another sandy alcove. Poor stance belay in a scoop to the right of the alcove.

P8 110' 5.10d Start up to the right, climb amazing, sustained face to yet another alcove. Belay in the alcove.

P9 90' 5.10d A powerful boulder problem with sandy feet gets you into a groove above. Head up and right, gaining another groove that takes you back left. Continue up the face left of the alcove for 30' to an ok stance to belay extend every piece on this pitch! 

P10 110' 5.10b Climb the moderate face to gain another hourglass feature. Crux moves past the hourglass take you to some gear placements and a water polished slab. Once on the slab, traverse left to gain an easy flake. Belay on a great ledge in another alcove. 

P11 60' 5.9 Step right, make a tricky mantle up to another water polished slab, then to an easy crack. Belay just above on a comfortable ledge. 

Move the belay up to the center of the large ledge to your right. 

P12 80' 5.9+ Start up near a thread. Then steep moves gain the face above. Belay in a shallow scoop.

P13 115' 5.10c A long technical face takes you up the center of the pillar. Belay in another shallow Scoop.

P14 90' 5.10b Another technical face pitch takes you up to a belay just below the summit of the wall. 

P15 30' 5.6 An easy scramble takes you to the top of the wall. You can either go straight up on good holds (5.6), traverse right for a slab mantle (5.7) or traverse left to the top out groove for Firestone (5.5). There is no bolted anchor on top, either gear belay or belay off a juniper far from the edge. 

Descent: Descend via Hammads. From where you top out, scramble up easy slabs for a couple hundred meters to gain Hammad's. Here, you are just above the rappels into the great Siq. 

Location Suggest change

The route starts on the buttress below and to the right of the pillar of wisdom. Approach into the gully as if heading up to Hammad's. After a few minutes the Firestone chimneys will become visible. The route starts on the terrace down and left from the start of these chimneys.

Protection Suggest change

Single Rack .3 - .75; many quickdraws

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