Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches
FA: Lani Chapko and Sam Boyce March 2025
Page Views: 0 total · 0/month
Shared By: Sam Boyce on Apr 16, 2025
Admins: Gunkswest

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Warning Access Issue: Entrance fee required; you are also supposed to register with the Tourist Police if climbing DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This route climbs the series of splitter cracks to the left of the start for Hammad's Route. After a lackluster approach pitch, you are rewarded with 3 amazing pitches of sustained crack climbing. One of the best crack routes in Rum! 

CAUTION: The ledges/gullies above pitches 2 and 3 are filled with rubble, take extreme caution when moving over them. Consider not climbing behind others. And DO NOT rappel the route.

P1 100' 5.9 A sandy approach pitch takes you up to the base of an overhanging off width. Gear belay at poor stance. It is also possible to climb the left facing corner that takes you to the same point (better protected but longer) 

P2 80' 5.10+ "The Sandy Burke" Climb easy terrain to the roof. Surmount the tricky OW roof. Once above the OW, get a directional piece and work left on a thin slab to a bolt. Reachy face climbing and stemming takes you past the bolt back into the corner. Belay on a great ledge on bolts.

P3 115' 5.10 All of your suffering has been for this! An amazing 100' splitter hand crack. It slowly tapers from 3's to .5's for a pumpy layback finish.

P4 115' 5.10- Very carefully ramble up another choss gully to gain the base of a thin crack. A short bit of face climbing gets you established. Follow the thin crack to a ledge, then an easy slabby bit up and right (bolt) gets you to another crack. Thin hands takes you to the top! 

Descent: Do not rappel the route. Go down the standard Hammad's rappels. This takes you within 100' of the base. 

Location Suggest change

The route starts about 100M to the left of the standard start for Hammad's Route.

Protection Suggest change

Double Rack .3 - 3; Single #5

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