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Cat 6: Rider on the Storm (Grabbing the Great Chode Contrivance)
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
Routes in (c) Eastern Block
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Tunnel of Love/Delightful Cacophony Funneled Within S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lip Service/Phone Threats S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Impartial Eclipse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sorry, We Came Early S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Strategic Placement S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Displacement S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cat 5: Gutter Grab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cat 6: Rider on the Storm (Grabbing the Great Chode Contrivance) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hurricane S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Violent Threats From The Guidebook Bully S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Contrivance Direct S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ellie's Sweet Kiss S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ruins Of War, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ghosts Of War S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Piece Maker S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Missing the Taco S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Attack of the Butter Knives S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Kiss of the Crowbar S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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**Eastern Block Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Aldous Eaton (2025). Equipped by the Chode Rider. |
| Page Views: | 68 total · 63/month |
| Shared By: | Aldous William Eaton on Apr 5, 2025 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Bolted and abandoned by the Chode Rider before he got too good for the Far Side. Climb an open book feature into the roof. There are basically three ways to get through the roof. Cheat out left, crimp straight up or use the arete out right. Leap for a jug above the arete then make an easy traverse into Cat 5 and climb the beautiful choss to the shared anchor.
Advice
Don't link this from Hurricane. Either climb it off the ledge with your belayer up there with you or climb it from the ground via the first two bolts of Violent Threats. Back clean Violent's first bolt and the first bolt off the ledge, that one ain't protecting you from shit anyway. Have an extended draw at the ready for the bolt over the roof. You don't need an alpine draw just combined two normal draws and it'll perfectly reach over the lip. Maybe bring a brush and some wrenches (two different nut sizes), the crux bolts will likely becoming spinners with more people on the route.
I added the bolt in the roof. It's not in the most perfect place but it helps prevent decking and it allows you to bolt to bolt the route. That's actually what I would recommend you do because placing the draw above the roof on lead would be incredibly difficult and a lil scary.
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