Supercouloir

A plumb line. Possibly the most obvious of the range. ED-

Conditions on P1-P2 determine the nature of the experience. When iced up (e.g. 2025) the route goes at AI5, M5+, not counting the overhanging ice plug. I've heard the ice plug quoted as AI5+. In these conditions the climbing is a series of short bouldery sequences that surmount mini bulges/roofs followed by good rests. If not properly iced (the most common scenario lately; e.g. 2019-2023) the route reportedly goes at AI5, M7. There is a bypass of the first two pitches via the Gervasutti Pillar followed by a traverse that may be preferable in dry years. If you've done this please add a description. Until then refer to the Damilano guide for this variant.

P1 - M5-M6. Climb racks and ice smears on the right of the corner. Belay on the left from bolts and chains (60m). There is an earlier belay (bolts + tat) on the right as well (55m), but it's awkward and you won't reach the belay at the start of P3 with 60m ropes if you stop here. Better to go to the second belay (not visible from the first, but up and left, see photo below). Protection is reasonable.

P2 - Varies from AI5(+) to M7 depending on conditions. Climb up through the snow plug. Turn the plug on the left. There's tat to aid off. I've never found this sort of tat useful. Protection is reasonable. Belay on the right from chains. 60m

P3 - a long snow ramp into an AI3 step. Belay on the right from chains. 60m

P4 - An AI4 ice step. Belay on the right from chains. 50m

P5 - A longer AI4 ice step. Belay on the right from chains. 60m

P6 - A snow ramp/AI3 step. Belay on the right from tat on pins. There should be chains. We couldn't find them. 45m.

P7 - More of the same. Belay on the left from chains. 60m.

P8 - AI5 step. Belay on the left from chains. 55m

Take the above anchor beta with a grain of salt  the couloir is subject to rockfall and chains and or bolts may be damaged over time. The above beta is current as of March 2025 though.

After P8 the terrain eases off, but considerable addition climbing exists if you wish to continue to the summit in the spirit of the FA. If you've done this and can add details, please do.

From what I can tell the difficulty with topping out is getting back down. This route is normally approached on skis because when it's in condition the snow tends to be deep and it may be impossible to get to the base without skis (YMMV, but I've met parties who have tried and given up). In these conditions it makes sense to stop at P8 from where you can still rappel the route to get back to your skis. Reversing the route from above P8 seems like a hazardous enterprise, likely to result in stuck ropes and rock fall. Nobody does this for good reason. The standard descent if topping out is via the Trois Monts route, but this will also involve substantial postholing just to get to the cosmiques (to say nothing of your skis), even if you decide to avoid the seracs by going down the Chere. The logistics of the complete ascent can be complicated. If paragliding is in your skillset that might be worth considering here.

Located on the East Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul just left of the Gervasutti Pillar. The upper 6 pitches are often in from September until early spring. If you're skiing the Voie Normale of the Vallee Blanche and inspect the East Face of the Tacul, they jump out at you. The lower two pitches vary from year to year. They seem to come in early if they come in at all, and then dry out slowly throughout the season. I wouldn't rule out a spring cycle though, and if you witness one, please update this accordingly. The line leads directly to the summit (although few take it past the end of technical difficulties).

Alpine mixed rack. 60m ropes. 70m could be nice. The first pitch takes a lot of gear, and we were happy for it given the questionable quality of the ice we found (brought 1.5 rack of cams plus stoppers). Had pins, but didn't use them. Flotation. I keep seeing people who think they can walk in, and insist on learning the hard way. Not sure what gives people this impression. Maybe you can in early (September/October) or late season (May), but it's unusual. SnowPlaks or similar crampon compatible mini snowshoes may be enough though and particularly nice for the complete ascent.