Boogie 'Til Ya Puke
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | NB |
Page Views: | 115 total · 62/month |
Shared By: | nbrown on Feb 14, 2025 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
For the most part I don't post new routes on here anymore, but I'm going to make an exception for this one. I enjoyed it way too much not to share, as I think it's one of the best single pitch water grooves I've done in a long time. If you like (fairly) hard and sustained slab crimping up laser cut water groves, this one's for you! It's the green line on the main page topo photo.
P1. 5.12. Start on the easy ledges just right of the large ponderosa pine. Climb past a piece of gear (finger- to hand-size) to the line of bolts that lead up and right to the groove. Climb the amazing groove to an anchor at ~ 115'. Gear: a finger- to hand-size cam and ~12 bolts. The grade is a guess; none of the moves are all that hard, but it is very sustained and cryptic. Note on this pitch: you can get down with shenanigans (scrambling, etc.) with a 60m rope, but you will need a 70+m rope to lower all the way down safely.
P2, 5.8. Climb the low angle arete up and right of the 4th Class corner. Gear: 3 bolts and maybe a small cam in the top of a hollow flake (not available on the FA). The anchor is ~ 100’ up on a large ledge.
Note: I started a pitch up and left (I would merge into the original slab in the center) but (temporarily) abandoned it due to crumbly rock. I believe it would clean up if someone wanted to put the effort in. It would be a much more engaging second pitch than the current moderate slab. There are 2 bolts: the top has a hanger and bail 'biner and the bottom a stud only (10 mm ss wedge; you may need a nut).
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