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Horse Chute
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British A3
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in 2. Southwest Face
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Aquarian Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2+ |
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Controlled Burn T A4 |
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Dihedral Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3- |
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El Corazon T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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Excalibur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Flight of the Albatross T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Free Rider T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Freeblast T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Golden Gate T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Grape Race T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Heart Route (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V10 7C+ |
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Horse Chute T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A4+ R |
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Lurking Fear T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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Magic Mushroom T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a A3 |
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Mirage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Mr. Midwest T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c PG13 |
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Muir Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- |
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Never Never Land 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A4+ |
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Ready to Go T A5+ X |
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Salathé Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Shield, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Squeeze Play 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Sunkist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Triple Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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West Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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West Face T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wings of Steel T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3+ R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3000 ft (909 m), 22 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton - 1974 |
| Page Views: | 55 total · 55/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Rex on Feb 3, 2025 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Taking the leftmost of the three swooping corner systems that rise above the great slab on the southwest face of el cap, this 1974 Porter-Burton line climbs many of the more eye-catching features on this part of the wall that beckon to be climbed. Headlined by the one-and-only heroin corner, HC is a cool journey up large natural features with plenty of adventure and minimal fixed gear. Not bad for a supposed one-pitch-wonder with a 1000’ of approach climbing.
Horse chute starts at the corner of the great slab, following the first five left-leaning pitches of the Dihedral wall. At the triangle roof, where dihedral breaks out right, horse chute heads left, passing a couple ledges, some rambly free climbing, and culminating in the frog spawn arch (Big Wall Spatula optional).
A wild traverse out the roof leads to the base of THE corner - “obviously one of the really cool places to climb on el cap” (Hugh Burton). After the main event, keep truckin up to Truck Stop ledge (big but sloping), and choose your own adventure from the 2 finish options: original moves right and climbs the wild roofs above, rejoining dihedral for the last pitches to thanksgiving. Alternatively, the horse play variation goes up and left.
From thanksgiving, shuttle west to the west buttress finish. If you topped out on dihedral, this will involve a short rap or downclimb.
Location
Starts on the Dihedral wall. Where the southwest face meets the great slab, look for a low angle ramp with bolts at the top. This marks the start of the Dihedral wall.
Protection
#5 and #6 (helpful on frog spawn and truck stop pitches)
10 large beaks, 5 medium, couple small
Couple arrows
Handful of rivet hangers
Small selection of heads
All HC belays are upgraded with stainless 3/8 hardware. The last 3 dihedral pitches are a single 3/8 backed up with gear. Next party on Horse play could do a service and upgrade the 40 year old rusty 1/4 inchers at those belays.
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