PRINT: Rock Climb Blue Square, Big Rock Mountain

Blue Square

5.11, Sport, 115 ft (35 m),

Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
S Carolina > Big Rock Mountain > Main Wall

Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking Details

Please be mindful of the neighbors on Big Rock Lake Road. Do not park along the road, generate excessive noise in the parking lot or at the cliff, or camp out. If the parking is full, use the spot at the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Roads. This is a neighborhood, drive slow and be courteous. Violating one of these rules is an easy way to get the cliff shutdown for everyone.

Description

Scramble up the gully to the offwidth. The original line climbed the offwidth to the Big Rock Candy belay anchors and then headed left and up. Now there are 3 bolts to the left of the offwidth. Clip these and climb straight up (5.11) gaining a seam (optional gear between bolt 2 and 3) or stem from the offwidth until you can gain the seam and step over (5.10 ish) heading left to a slopey ledge. Clip a bolt and head up the bolt line (5.10) to anchors on a ledge to the left of the Candy Arete anchors. Possible gear between bolts. BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCKS BELOW ANCHOR.

This can be top roped with a full 70 meter but tie knots in the end. You may have to come off belay for the last 2 foot scramble down the gully.

Location

Left of Big Rock Candy Arete, starts in same gully as the 5.9 offwidth.

Protection

8 bolts, optional gear between bolts 2-3. Maybe gear up higher to supplement bolts.