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Routes in Main Wall
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5.9 Offwidth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big Rock Candy Arete T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Big Rock Candy Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blue Square S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Booger Picken S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Doc's Black Diamond T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Dr. Strangelove S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Flakey T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heat Wave T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Optical Delusion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Picken & Grinnin' T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Picken' on the Fat Kid T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ramp Arete S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Raven Rookery T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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S Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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S crack direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Seams Impossible T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Slim Pickens S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Thar Be Dragons (Slab Ramp) S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Thin Skin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown Slab T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vultures S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Wide Way or the Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wondercrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 72 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | Rob Owens on Feb 3, 2025 |
| Admins: | Tom Caldwell, Steve Lineberry |
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Access Issue: Neighborhood Parking
Details
Please be mindful of the neighbors on Big Rock Lake Road. Do not park along the road, generate excessive noise in the parking lot or at the cliff, or camp out. If the parking is full, use the spot at the intersection of Preston McDaniel and Nine Times Roads. This is a neighborhood, drive slow and be courteous. Violating one of these rules is an easy way to get the cliff shutdown for everyone.
Description
Scramble up the gully to the offwidth. The original line climbed the offwidth to the Big Rock Candy belay anchors and then headed left and up. Now there are 3 bolts to the left of the offwidth. Clip these and climb straight up (5.11) gaining a seam (optional gear between bolt 2 and 3) or stem from the offwidth until you can gain the seam and step over (5.10 ish) heading left to a slopey ledge. Clip a bolt and head up the bolt line (5.10) to anchors on a ledge to the left of the Candy Arete anchors. Possible gear between bolts. BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCKS BELOW ANCHOR.
This can be top roped with a full 70 meter but tie knots in the end. You may have to come off belay for the last 2 foot scramble down the gully.
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