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Routes in Underworld
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Son of a Bit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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What’s My Line T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bloody Back T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Racquiescence T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mr. Perfect T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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In the Moment T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Floyd's Jam T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hungry Ghosts aka Preta S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown 5.12 T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Self Doubt S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blood Brothers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mexican Mafia T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown 12b-ish T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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She screams, Frozen until the warmth of another death. From the final gate she whispers her curse S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Charon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cmobog T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cerberus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Osiris T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Persephone T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corruption T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pluto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Extrortion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vice T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Alias T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown 11- T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Made Man T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Criminal Ballistics T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Armed Robbery T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Armed and Dangerous T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Cottonmouth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Size Doesn't Matter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unfinished Project T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Mark Engibous? |
| Page Views: | 38 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | greg t on Jan 21, 2025 |
| Admins: | Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Some of the landowners have expressed that they do not want climbers crossing their land to access the cliff from the top (north).
Details
Unfortunately, some of the ranchers up above the cliff are not open to climbers crossing their land to reach the crag. In fall of 2024, we talked to a few landowners in the area above Underworld, and they were not happy with climbers accessing Underworld from above. We tried to chat with them about potential options that would make it reasonable for them, but they were confrontational and did not want to continue discussion.
I'm not sure if we met Trent specifically (the rancher mentioned in this photo/map showing access from the north mountainproject.com/photo/1…), but some of the others in the area were not psyched. A user put together another map with landowner beta here, but it is emphasized that you must ask for permission first, which could be challenging: mountainproject.com/photo/2….
It's best and simplest to take the original (long) approach from the south. Perhaps in the future we can work something out like an official easement trail, but for now, it seems unlikely. If you decide to track down a rancher and follow the northern approach beta in the photos/maps, you do so at your own risk.
I'm not sure if we met Trent specifically (the rancher mentioned in this photo/map showing access from the north mountainproject.com/photo/1…), but some of the others in the area were not psyched. A user put together another map with landowner beta here, but it is emphasized that you must ask for permission first, which could be challenging: mountainproject.com/photo/2….
It's best and simplest to take the original (long) approach from the south. Perhaps in the future we can work something out like an official easement trail, but for now, it seems unlikely. If you decide to track down a rancher and follow the northern approach beta in the photos/maps, you do so at your own risk.
Description
Start on the block under the small roof right of the first bolt. Juggy traverse left to first bolt. Place a small piece above bolt in a good constriction. Work your way up into the stem corner.
Great sustained stemming to a hands-free rest on the right of the corner. Felt about 11+ / 12- to here. Tricky final boulder problem right below the chains on left.
Don't expect a piece at your waist the whole time, although I would deem it safely protected. If you can't figure out the top boulder problem, you can tension from the last bolt to a .3 placement below the chains.
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