Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: Matt Whitman
Page Views: 40 total · 40/month
Shared By: Franky Lapitino on Jan 18, 2025
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

What a feature! A pure line of edges angles across the otherwise blank, wavy wall to reach the wildly imposing prow.

Sit start below a faint dihedral on a slopey left hand gaston and a thin right hand crimp. Move up to a big flat edge and bust a hard leftward move around the bulge to crimps. Continue following good crimps left with little in the way of feet and try not to get pumped before a big move to the lip of the prow and decide where to topout.

Location Suggest change

From the parking at the Tower Rd gate, take the trail on your right then take the second left fork onto the South Ridge trail. This is the trail that takes you up to the fire tower on the side closest to Reservation Rd. Hike about 10 minutes, and well before you've reached the fire tower you should start seeing some boulders on your right and a low wall that is basically in the trail (this spot is a couple minutes before you would turn right to go to the Mother's Wall). When you've reached this little 8ft wall bounding the right side of the trail, El Mattador directly to your left, hidden on the hillside no more than 50ft off the trail. Dip down the steep hill and look for the defining prow of the boulder. The climb faces downhill so you might not see it until you're right on top of it.

Protection Suggest change

3 pads and perhaps a spotter, the topout is somewhat committing and you might roll down the hill if you blow it.

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