Criminal Relativity

This is a cool route I spotted from the Armadillo, it climbs the left side of the Flatiron feature in 2p. My assumption is that this exact line hadn’t gone free, but it’s Katahdin so I really don’t know. Someone had left a tri-cam with a carabiner toward the top of the crack climbing portion, which makes me think it had been tried but bailed off of. If someone has freed it, I tip my hat! The line starts with a short 5.6 ow to a stance where you can place great pro before starting into the lb/jam crack. Once at a rail stance place the last good pro high in the crack (black totem) and face climb to the right, until moving back left to a slight stance where the crack begins to arch. I was able to bash in a #2 pecker with a rock I pulled off the crux and it seemed maybe ok, one could probably nest this with a thin KB or another pecker. From here pull a challenging move or two (10+ slab) to reach a stance on the exposed prow. Keep your nerves in check while making runout 5.9 moves up then directly left, to reach easier ground up to the ledge. Belay here with a KB and small gear, or start into the corner to reach easier gear/worse stance.

The next pitch is a fun 5.8 corner with an easy chimney to the right when it ends.

This route has potential for serious falls. It crossed my mind that the rope might cut on the corner if a fall was taken on the 5.9R (I think half’s could mitigate this.) If anyone ever wants to add a couple of bolts to this, please do (reference of the route name).

Overall we found it to be a worthwhile route that deserved attention and documentation.

Approach the same as the Armadillo, but exit right out of the gully instead of left. Scramble up and around the corner to access the OW.