All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > 191 South > Pocket Walls > Peninsula Wall

The Peninsula

Name: The Peninsula
Rating: 2.0

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in The Peninsula Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Peninsula, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Pick Pockets T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pocket Protector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Pocket Tots T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
	Pockets Full Of Sunshine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA:	Evan Wisheropp and Matt Peterson, 9/24
Page Views:	52 total · 52/month
Shared By:	Evan Wisheropp on Dec 29, 2024
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

5.10 or 5.8 A0

IMPORTANT: Clip the first bolt with a double length sling (48"), and have your belayer down below the main face. If you clip it short, it will cause a rope groove, and that is very poor form. If the follower needs to bail below the second bolt, please down-climb (it's 4th class). This is a very special place, so please take care and caution to maintain the aesthetics and quality of the climb.

This is the approach pitch to the beautiful pocketed wall above, as well as the beautiful peninsula. Scramble up 4th class to a mini dihedral facing the road, clip the first bolt with a double-length sling, then cross over the arete into the traverse. The holds are good, but very soft and very sandy. Tread gently as to not fill the holds with more sand. They'll always be sandy and brushing them will only deteriorate the holds, but blowing them is very helpful if you end up hanging on a bolt. The climbing is more technical and delicate than strong pulling. The feet alternate between high and low, which makes for a unique traverse. Please be gentle and stay far away if the rock could be at all damp.

It is bolted very comfortably as it is a traverse bolted on lead, and the one who paid for the bolts wanted a safe and accessible route for him and his daughter. Awesome!