Like Water for Chocolate
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Routes in Chocolate Factory
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A(nother) B(lake) R(oute) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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A.L.F. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Atomic Fireballs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Babinski Sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Bathed in Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Big Friendly Giant, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bittersweet S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butane Junky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Butterface S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Candy Man, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Cats' Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Chocolate Myotis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chocolatier S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chonky Chocolate S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chonky Chocolate (Direct start) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cookie Monster S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Crimp My Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Death by Chocolate S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dew Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Divine Punishment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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End of Innocence T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fatface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gene Wilder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Giant Peach, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden chocobo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Ticket, The S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Grandma Josephine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hookah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Icebreaker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keepin' It Real S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kentucky Grape Vine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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King of the Rhodo T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leche del Toro S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Like Water for Chocolate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Limbic System S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Loompa S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Loverface S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Malice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Meh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mr. P. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Naked S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Nasal Nuggets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nutter Butter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Old School Chocolate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Oompa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Open Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Peaches and Cream T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Perfect Puzzle V2 5+ |
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Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scarlet Scorchdropper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shootin' Hot Hugs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silky Smooth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spinal Tap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stalker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Storm Gutter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tapita Gallito S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Theobroma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Three Stooges S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Through the Looking Glass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Toxicondendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twinkie's Little Sister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Veruca Salt S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Violet Beauregarde S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
FA: | Jason Forrester - 2020; Equipped by Scott Curran |
Page Views: | 61 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | Matt Looby on Dec 27, 2024 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
Description
A few bolts of easy intro climbing lead to a hard boulder problem on slopey crimps between bolts 4 & 5. A couple of long pulls bring you to a small hueco with the anchor.
There is a 2-bolt extension to another anchor near the top of the cliff. Pull a long span out of the hueco to get past a blank section of rock. Another boulder problem on slopey crimps guards the anchor.
Location
The leftmost sport route on the wall with Malice. Scramble to a ledge at the top of a jumbled pile of large boulders; it's probably best to belay from up on the ledge. This route is the first bolted line right of a crack. It starts on golden rock and the 1st anchor is in a small hueco depression in black rock, just to the right of a black water streak. The 2nd anchor continues up black lower-angle rock to the top of the cliff.
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